The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Automatic for a 2-ton 59 Viking

Hi.
What engine and auto trans is the best fit for a 59 viking if you want to convert to V8.
Not saying I will but if I want to...
I want to keep the 2 speed rear, and get a auto trans that can cope with the weight.
Suggestions ?

Hy lastchancetowing, the small block Chev V8 was available in the truck chassis starting with the 55B or second series, the vendors sell a kit for the front engine mounts which can be bolted to the chassis front crossmember allowing you to install the V8 engine the same way the factory did. As for automatic transmissions the only one that was available from the factory was the dual range four speed Hydramatic, these are the "stock" options. If you don't mind some fabrication the possibilities are just about endless, hope that helps.

Try a Chevy 454 and a 4L80 transmission. The 35 foot motorhome I inherited from my parents has that setup and it's been all over the USA, including traveling the ALCAN highway to Alaska, with no engine or transmission concerns. I don't know what the gross weight is, but it handles the boxy motorhome at highway speed with no loss of performance. Gas mileage sucks, but that's to be expected when shoving an overgrown packing crate down the road as 70+ MPH!

The 4L80E transmission needs a computer, but so does the fuel-injected 454 that mates with it. There are aftermarket electronic controls available, but they're pretty spendy.
Jerry

If you don't want the computer a TH400 will bolt up to any of the older bolt pattern Chevy motors. This trans doesn't have OD, but was used in motorhomes for years.

Mike B

I don't know if there are too many G.M. school buses in Sweden,but you may be able to find a '70's Chevy/G.M.C.,with a 350/366/427/Allison automatic. You'll have to change your steering box,to clear the V-8's. I'd swap out the cross-members from the donor,too.

Hy Guys, as I posted earlier, the small block Chev V8 was available in this chassis from the factory. So as long as you install a small block V8 the steering box will not have to be relocated, hope that helps.

I did a 235/PowerGlide to 350/350 conversion in my chevy styleline 1950 so I know where and how to fix crossmembers and engine mounts. That time I used Walton Fabrication. Was easy as heck.
The problem today is my 4 speed is really difficult to change gears byt it works. And I have the spicer PTO with two output shafts. It works really well too. So I am struggeling.
Keep original manual gearbox and still have a E-brake that works perfect. And just change engine to a V8. If I decide to swap all out I have to convert to and electric winch and electric power the hoist. And have to try to fit the E-brake drum and that with a TH400 ... don't know if this is a good choice.
Well well, this year busy fixing my Galaxie 59 into running condition. So this will have to wait anyhow until next winter.

Ulf,

My 1956 Tow Truck has a 350 sbc against the original SM420 4-speed and it does great! I can run 65+ mph all day long. If you're having trouble shifting your synschronizers may be shot, might be time for a trans rebuild, which is way easier that re-engineering EVERYTHING...

Mike B

YEAH that's what I want to hear

How did you get the 350 to fit the 4 speed?
What parts did you use and how ?

I'd rather fix the 4 speed and run a 350 if possible
What clutch did you use and how about flywheel and bellhousing ?
I can use the same engine mounts as I did in my chevy car for this setup

http://www.waltonfabrication.com/19chca1.html

The V8 swap is pretty simple- - -find a 55-62 V8 truck bellhousing and it should bolt right onto your existing center crossmember. The SM420 is a direct bolt-up to that bellhousing. The frame should already have the appropriate mounting points for a small block V8 since it was an available option for your truck. Some of the V8 trucks used a horseshoe-shaped front mount bracket that bolted onto the front of the block below the water pump- - -all small blocks have 4 bolt holes for that mount. It uses a single large rectangular rubber mount pad that fits on a flat spot in the front crossmember.

An engine that roughly corresponds to the 235/261 situation is the small block 400. It has the same external dimensions as a 350, with a longer stroke, bigger bore, and 50 more cubic inches. The cylinder castings are siamesed like a 261, and the heads have the same type of "steam holes" drilled between the combustion chambers. If you opt for one of those engines, be sure and install a BIG radiator- - - -they can be prone to overheating on a hard pull. There were a very few small block 400's made with 4-bolt main bearing caps. Good luck!
Jerry

Hy Guys, the stock mounts for the V8 option were not installed on the frame unless the truck left the factory equipped with a V8, but many vendors sell a kit to convert a non V8 chassis into a V8 equipped chassis. The horseshoe shaped mount didn't start until the sixties. The bellhousing would have to be an iron truck housing from 55B to 59, or 63 to 68? (60 through 62 were hydraulic clutch equipped with the throwout arm on the right side of the bellhousing), hope that helps.

Thanks I will issue a buy ad here on the forum later then for the bellhousing.

Ulf,

Once you get the bell housing you'll need this kit that bolts to the factory crossmember holes and to the front of your sbc motor (make sure your motor has the 2-mounting holes drilled and tapped on each side of the timing cover).

http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-Original-V-8-Conversion-Set/productinfo/79-375/#.VQrxT47F-T8

You will also need the V8 carb linkage assembly (also available from Classic Parts) and a radiator shroud (you may need to make this).

Hope this helps,

Mike B

Does that kit work with the big rig frames? He's running a 2 ton.
Jerry

Hy Hotrod Lincoln, yes the front engine mount kit that Mike B referenced will work just fine, these brackets fit everything 55B through 59 except cabovers and parcel vans, hope that helps.

Would this one fit ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-56-57-...89709979?hash=item19ef58169b&vxp=mtr

Or this one ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-58...ries&hash=item19e28cb83e&vxp=mtr

Or that one :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-58...ries&hash=item19e5e9cb8c&vxp=mtr

And:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-58...12842701?hash=item43d98f18cd&vxp=mtr

And next step... what clutch can I use ?

Hy lastchancetowing, any of those bellhousings will do the job, but the third one down is the same as the stock one, for the forged throwout arm. As for the clutch you might be able to reuse the clutch from your six cylinder engine, hope that helps.

Ulf,

The two upper bell housings you listed have the larger clutch fork opening and the boot for then is reproduced and available. Check out part #90-525 from ClassicParts.com

You will also need the sheet metal dust covers part numbers #90-914 (lower) and 90-915 (front).

Mike B

Thanks, I will use this type:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-58...ries&hash=item19e5e9cb8c&vxp=mtr

And reuse my own clutch from the 261.

The 261 engine will be left in the garage until I find a 29/30 Chevy to put it in

Mike / 3B if I can find locally a bellhousing with the larger clutch fork opening would that still work with the 261 clutch or do I have to build on hydraulic clutch.
I'd like to reuse as much as possible.

The bellhousing with the smaller opening is harder to find I guess.

Hy lastchancetowing, yes the bellhousing with the larger throwout arm hole will work with all the other components you have, the only drawback is the hole will need to be filled in with something custom, hope that helps.

3B,

I'm confused...What will he need to be "custom"? They reproduce the boot for the big clutch fork slot...I have one on my 56 3100 pickup.

Mike B

Hy Mike B, I was unaware that a boot was being produced that would fit the large hole in the later bellhousings and form a good fit around the small forged throwout arm. Could you please post the number of that part?

3B,

Here is the part I used...it fit my fork just fine (don't know which fork I used).

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-72-Clutch-Fork-Boot/productinfo/90-525/#.VRH7KfnF-T8

Mike B

You might see about contacting HevyHauler about an automatic/V8 swap. While the article linked does mention using a Fuller manual, he did end up putting a later Powermatic in it with the 468 big block.

Don't forget you'll need a 3 bolt starter for the V-8;they're still available through the local parts stores. You can use a high torque starter motor and swap the 3 bolt nose piece onto it if you want a little more oomf for cranking the engine. When you get your bell housing,be careful to make sure the bottom starter hole is intact. It's easy to break off the corner of the bell housing there and ruin that hole. There are also different sized pilot holes available in the iron bell housings;try to get one that fits the front bearing retainer on your SM420,or you'll have trouble with the 4 trans. bolts trying to loosen. If you get a flywheel that can take an 11 inch clutch you can get a 12 inch diaphragm clutch that fits the same pressure plate bolt pattern. There's a long and a short release bearing;make sure the one you buy matches with the type of pressure plate you use. You may be able to use the mechanical clutch linkage from the six.
To mount the engine,the "horse shoe" mount was used on the early 60's V-8's;if you want to use a big block engine,the "horse shoe" mount from an early 60's 348/409 powered 2 ton will fit,most of 'em are drilled for big and small block engines. I used an old Hurst saddle mount on my truck just because I happened to have one,built the frame mounts from a couple of pieces of heavy 2' angle,and used flat head V-8 mount pads with Nylock nuts. Bullet-proof set up. BTW-a small block powered 2 ton truck will have "rams horn exhaust manifolds,but they fit a bigger pipe size than the car rams horn manifolds would fit.
Speed

That one's for the iron fork; the one for the stamped fork has more of a "C" shaped hole.

Hi I'm a straight six guy myself ,I would find a good running Chevy 292 straight six hooked a NV4500 5 speed to it ,then adapt TBI fuel injection and enjoy the truck .
This place below even has the wire print out online for the TBI computer if you want to do it yourself .If you really want a auto trans ,I've seen that the th400 can be used without a computer with this special electronic box you can buy.Remember heat is the auto trans killer use a good trans cooler .As for motor mounts most later Chevy trucks you can unbolt the motor mount perches .
You would measure all out with the motor and trans hanging on the engine hoist ,once you get it right place build your trans mount first and get it bolted in place , then bolt the motor mount perches to the motor mounts on the engine then build your engine cross member with 2"x2"x 1/4" square tubing .Pie slice cut the tubing without cutting through the tubing so will have one continuous piece then 3"x3"x1/4" angle on each side that would sit on top of the frame rails .
Better yet take a look at my drawing I made up .Just PM me if you have any questions .
I have a 250 six and NV 4500 5 speed to put in my 1948 2 ton flat bed .Still have to collect a few more parts before I do my swap .
Hope this helps paul

Drawing here with some pics also(sorry you'll have to copy this link to browser)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/58989402@N08/sets/72157651706555116/
Hamilton Fuel Injection
http://www.hamiltonfuelinjection.com/

The transmission I used is from a mid eighties topkick it is an Allison 540 4 spd. If I had it to do over it would be a LBZ Duramax and a 6 spd Allison.

I could have sworn it was a Powermatic you used, Grant. Either way, I knew it was an Allison built transmission.

Check out the video I left in a possible new direction for the bull dog build and you can see why I would do it with a Duramax and an Allison 1000. A big benefit of the 1000 is overdrive and the 2006 and later 6 spd has two overdrives.