The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Timing a 235

I thought I would share my experience with others in case they run into a similar problem trying to time a 235. Every time I attempted to turn the distributor so the steel ball was centered on the flywheel mark and went to tighten down the distributor, the steel ball would once again disappear. This afternoon it finally hit me what was going on. My vacuum line that is connected to the vacuum advance is metal tubing. There was sufficient tension on the tubing that it would turn the distributor slightly by putting pressure against it and subsequently throw the steel ball off as I was tightening it. I could not find anything in the shop manual indicating that the vacuum advance is supposed to be disconnected while setting timing, but I disconnected it anyway. That allowed me to center the timing mark and tighten down the distributor without it moving. I could then reconnect the vacuum line and the timing mark stayed centered. Quite an ordeal, but it turned out to be a simple solution. I may ultimately replace the metal tubing vacuum line with vacuum hose.

I have done it both ways

Now I lock the bolt down at 0 on the vac advance scale.
Then advance the distributor by loosening the Clamp in the back and turn the Body .
Lines stay stationary.

I seem to always end up being 8 to 12 degrees advanced after all adjustments (electronic ignition)

Yeah, Rick, Dads50 is right on. Thats what you need to do is use that adjustment bolt to properly cinch it down, then no problems. Most everyone uses metal tubing for that.

Also, there is several timing How-To's out there that help you either static time it (without running it) and full on timing procedures here:

http://devestechnet.com/Home/HowTo#engine