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#1090371 03/09/2015 1:46 AM
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I have a 54 Chevy ad and would like some advice on some alternatives to stock steering box. Would like to convert to power but kits are awfully high in price for my pockets. Has anyone made or done there own conversions and if so what parts did you use. Thanks for your help

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'Bolter
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I used the CPP power steering kit that uses a GM Saginaw 800 series
gear and pump. I am very pleased with the parts quality and performance.

The 51 panel steers like a 70's Cadillac now! You'll need to
increase your caster angle by 2 to 4 degrees in this swap, but
easily done at installation time. You'll need to upgrade the tie rod and ends. I used the CPP 1 inch tie rod and ends. There big and beefy and bolt right up to the new pitman arm in the PS kit.
I put in a ADDCO 1-1/8 inch stabilizer bar that bolted into the stock locations & upgraded to discs, too. These upgrades allow retention of the straight axle, but
drastically improve drivability and safety in my opinion.


mike


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Squire can you tell me how you went about increasing the caster angle. Im about to undertake the power steering option with CPP parts on my beam axle 53 Chev 3100.

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I have the CPP kit also. Just add angle shims between the springs and front axle to change the caster.

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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by wolffcub
I have the CPP kit also. Just add angle shims between the springs and front axle to change the caster.

Ditto that… You just loosen the spring packs and keep them clamped up…. and install the shims for positive caster.
OR, if you have access to a good old school alignment shop (that does
straight axles on trucks)
they'll do that and set the toe in for you in no time.

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Renaissance Man
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Why does the castor angle need to increase when adding power steering? None of the factory original components related to steering geometry have been altered. Is it because the addition of power steering allows you to notice that you didn't have enough castor to begin with, prior to adding the power steering?
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 03/13/2015 1:16 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Im a bit thick as Im wondering where to get additional shims. Are there suppliers for these or do I cut a piece of 1/4 X 1 3/4 inch steel and grind it to a taper?

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Any shop that does alignment should have them Stan, especially
if they cater to trucks.

Carl, my guess would be that since there is such a light touch
with PS that they may want the wheels to track a bit more
than with a manual steering set up. Maybe Longbox Bill will
jump in with a definitive answer, he works with this sort of
stuff daily.
dg

Last edited by Denny Graham; 03/12/2015 2:46 PM.

Denny G
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Originally Posted by 52Carl
Why does the castor angle need to increase when adding power steering? None of the factory original components related to steering geometry have been altered. Is it because the addition of power steering allows you to notice that you didn't have enough camber to begin with, prior to adding the power steering?
Carl

In the CPP kit's case, the steering geometry is radically altered from stock. The steering gearbox moves forward of the axle on the outboard side of the frame. The steering arm on the front driver's side spindle has to be cut off. A new steering arm is supplied in the kit along with a short, custom pitman arm for the Saginaw 800. I flunked geometry, so
I'm no expert! But, I suspect that these changes combined with the fact that lot's guys end up lowering the truck in front dictates the need for
an increase in positive caster angle in this particular CPP kit's case.

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I am in the middle of this mod and am familiar with the repositioning of the steering box, the shorter pitman arm, and the different steering arm, but I don't understand how those changes would affect castor, which is nothing more than how much the straight axle is tipped forward by angled shims.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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i am new to this. I am working on my 55 short bed down to the frame. The power steering is what i need to go with. Also the front suspension I want to go with the Mustang II. I just found out I need to make sure I get the USA made one. Where is the best buy for this? Also the Power steering conversion do you have to cut out the fender well? May I use my original stock steering column? Does anyone have pictures or video?

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Renaissance Man
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Don't the Mustang II's have rack and pinion steering?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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52Carl what are the pros and cons of the two types of steering. With the mustang2 dont I get an upgrade in suspension as well as handling? While power steering I must make due with what ever?

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Someone else will have to answer that for you. I have only glimpsed at that setup at car shows.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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How much weight is the Mustang front suspension designed For?

NAPA in my part of the country handles those shims, Al, come in thicknesses.

Last edited by EdPruss; 05/03/2015 12:10 AM.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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