The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1946 Chevy Truck pulling rear drums..

Working on replacing the wheel cylinders on thees dually truck, but having trouble getting to them. The wheels spin freely so I know the shoes are not catching. It is full float so I have to pull the axle which I have already done. What is the next step in order to pull the drum? This is what I am currently looking at: [img]http://i.imgur.com/7Nx3Rss.jpg[/img] Apparently I do not know how to make the picture show up here so that is the link to the picture. I am assuming something with the bearing retainer and bearing is what's holding me up, but I cannot figure out how or what to do...Thanks in advance!

Do I just need a big enough socket and that center piece will thread right out?

Interesting to see what you have there; I just got done pulling the rear drums off our 1955.1. We're comparing Huck vs. Bendix brakes, and we have SRW not duallies, but I thought I'd at least reply and see if any of the Bendix method worked for you. On the Bendix, you don't need to remove the hub, and there are two large slotted screws that hold the drum on. Those have to be removed first, then you can bang the drum around. You may or may not have these; I am unfamiliar with the Huck brakes.

Our brakes spun no problem as well, but when you tried to pull them off, they did not want to come out. The drums had been so worn that there was a lip on them that was catching on the shoes when we tried to pull them off. Had to drain the brake fluid to release tension, pulled the drum off just enough to get a bar in there and compress the shoes, then managed to get it off by having one person pull on the drum while another beat on it with a metal hammer from the side. Each hit let it slide just a bit more.

All of this may be completely unhelpful, but I wanted to at least chime in with my experience since you don't have any other replies yet.

The nut in the center with 6 slots machined in it needs to come off. Then there will be another right behind it that needs to come off. You can use a punch and hammer or you could get the correct tool at a Napa or some sort of parts store that knows bigger trucks. Once those are off then the drum and hub should pull off.

Be careful, they are heavy. When or if you want better brakes I am making a disc brake conversion that also switches over to a vacuum boosted master that mounts in the original location!

Good luck and you may also try posting questions in the Bigbolts section.

The nuts in the center that need to come off usually have a metal tab folded over into one of the slots in the nut from a keyed washer that acts as a keeper to help prevent the nuts from working loose during driving. Just have to fold the tab out and away from the nut. I use a flat screwdriver or a small chisel, bending it out just enough to clear the nut. Just mentioning it so you look for them, sometimes they are hard to see, and if you try to turn the nut with it locked anyone outside your garage may think you're heading to Florida because of all the shouting about sunny beaches.

Thank you for all the responses! Got them off and rebuilt but seem to have low pressure now..got a kick out of your repsonses..had me laughing!