The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts New disk brake kit for 2 ton

Replaced the spindle with the one I got from Grigg.
Caliper alignment is fine now. Didn't feel like buying another king pin set just for 2 bearings. Put a piece of 1-1/2"+ bearing brass in the lathe and made them.
Even though it would have been on the clients money, it's still the principal.

Moving on.

I did get a 19.5" wheel in today and will find out tomorrow if it fits with the new set up!

The 19.5" wheel is so dang close. I would bet with just a kiss with the grinder on the caliper, the wheel would fit! Or a customer spacer to push the wheel out an inch.

Many, many thanks Randy. I will get a caliper and see what I can do. Hope to avoid spacers so may try milling a bit of aluminum first. From what I could tell from the pix, it does look mighty close.

Tango, It really is close or I wouldn't suggest that you buy some parts! The worst is that you end up with a caliper that you can't return... The best is that you can stop much better than you used to be able to...

I plan on giving it a try Randy. But I do wish I could find a drawing or some such that could tell me how much metal could be safely removed from the caliper. I will do some looking to see what I can come up with.

Got most everything needed for the new brake lines.
Decided to go with 1/4" brake lines, the stock size for the truck. Had a box of 7/16-24 fittings for 1/4" on the shelf so that helped the decision.
Picked up the adapters for the master ports to 7/16-24. Never liked those short adapter lines they sell.
Will use all the original brass junction blocks with the studs that mount through the frame.
Put all the original frame clips for the lines, vac lines and wires into the vibrating tumbler over night last night and they are all shiny clean ready for paint.
The only parts left to get are 2 adapters for the flex lines. They are 7/16-20 thread and take a bubble flair, everything else takes a regular flair. It is easier to use an adapter fitting than to find 2 1/4" 7/16-20 fittings and make a bubble flair on the tube.

Will pick up another roll of 1/4" copper nickle tomorrow and start the layout.

Oh, does anyone have a part # for the rear flex line? Just remembered that.

Brake booster came today (8" double diaphragm).
It makes a big difference in clearance and mounting position.
Just held it in place but it looks like a 9" would just fit too.

I'll put the brake lines on hold and get this mounted, and post some pictures.
I will carefully position it so that a 9" can be swapped in. Since I have this one I'll use it first.
That way when it's all done and I get around to doing a brake test with the truck at full 16,000 lbs gross, if it doesn't have as much Whoa as I want I can move up to the 9" dual.

Btw, found the rear flex line at O'Rileys when I picked up the roll of brake line.

Excellent Jim --- Can't wait to see the pix.

Spent a lot of time on picking the location for the booster and master.
The 8" dual booster could squeeze in next to the trans and looked like I could do a fancy bracket to bolt to the original master cyl mount. Just like the kits they sell for the pickups. Just a slightly longer push rod.

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

It was a game of fractions of an inch and finally realized working on the trans, brakes or anything else in the area would be awful after the cab was on.

You guys with 47 and later with the stock 4 speed will have much better luck. Could probably fit a 9" dual diaphragm and might be able to use the mounting hardware they sell for the pickups. I even considered the peddle kit ($89) that replaces the whole mount with one made to hold a power booster.

Anyway finally decided to mount it further back.
Next most important consideration was where the new access plate in the cab floor would be. Didn't want it to end up in the middle of a seat support.

Found the perfect location so the access would be under the seat.
Then found if I moved that just an inch (still under the seat) that I could use Randy's push rod without cutting it.

However Randy's super built mounting bracket didn't survive.
I flipped the orientation around to use a straight push from the peddle. Would have lived to use the bell crank just to hold the weight of the push rod, but the trans cross member was in the way.
That also made the booster too high and wouldn't clear the floor.
So had to cut it up and relocate things.

These pics show what I ended up with. Think it is going to work great. Bracket is just tack welded until I finish up the peddle connections.

Removed the rear eye on the push rod and will put a thread reducer bushing to connect directly to the booster.

http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/jsdesign2/library/

Included are a couple pics of the assembly up next to the trans. Soooo close.

This location also allows plenty of space to go to a 9" dual diaphragm without changing anything else if I think it needs more whoa. I would advise anyone else to just use the 9" dual if the 11" doesn't fit in your truck. Since I bought the 8" I will see how it works.

Looking good Jim.

shame about the booster bracket. It's the perfect answer for the '46 and earlier and certainly is well built.
But the '47 on market will need a much simpler solution, I'm sure the right pieces can be found to locate it where the old master was and connect directly to the peddle.

Jim, Sounds like I will need to purchase a 47 2-ton to make the master bracket for it... Easy to justify it that way!

Just don't change the transmission.

Yesterday I machined a thread reducer bushing for the right side of the link. (1/2-20 3/8-24).

Also machined a grade 8 1/2" bolt into a 3/8 step bolt to attach the left end of the link to the peddle. Fits great and retains the adjustability.

All painted and installed ready to start attaching lines,

Have almost all the new brake lines fabricated. Rear axle set. front axle set and sideline back to the original junction block and side line from the rear axle to cross member to cross over to the master.
25 feet of NiCu so far and ran out. Buy some more tomorrow.

Having a Bi**h of a time finding the 2 fittings to connect the flex lines to the front lines. I planned to put 7/16-24 inverted falir fittings on the lines (like the rest of the truck) and use a brass adapter from there to the flex lines 7/16-20 bubble flair. (7/16-24 inverted female x 7/16-20 bubble male)
It would be easier to make them!
Finally found a guy who works at Autozone who is building a Drift Car. He said he needed one for his hydraulic hand brake. He finally had to special order it through Advanced Auto Parts and it took 2 weeks to get.

Still another source to try before I resort to that.

Seems a different front brake flex line with common inverted flare could be a better option.

Jim, I will look at mine today. I really don't remember having any issues connecting the lines, but I may be forgetting something.

More soon,

Well.... It looks like I forgot to supply the adapter from the brake hose to the brake line. I will send my guy out to the race shop in the morning and pick them up for you guys.

Thanks,

I did look at brake line options when looking at calipers. I wasn't able tho find any that had imperial threads.... They were all metric. Seems like a bigger problem to have to pull the metal line out of the frame and install a new fitting and then re-flare?

Correction
The kid at Auto zone got it wrong (surprise)
It isn't a 7/16-20 bubble fitting on the hose
It is an 1/4" AN flair (which has 7/16-20 thread)
In automotive terms a #2 AN (or #3 haven't looked it up)
Still have to find an adapter that doubles as a strain relief but this size makes more sense.
Also have the option of another hose that has it all.

I am open to another hose, but as I mentioned, I couldn't find one off the shelf that has the correct banjo fitting on the caliper side and an imperial thread on the other end!

I'll dig a little deeper!

I just ordered 2 adapters from JEGS. #4 AN male to 7/16-24 inverted female.
It looks like I can use them to anchor the strain relief too.

I have identified some hoses that may work. They will take me a few days to get in. I will have a very busy next week and will be out of town the following week. I'll do my best to see how they fit before I go, but it may be after!

More soon,

What's the part number and or application? If you don't get to it soon one of these guys may want to borrow one from their local auto parts store and check it out themselves.

Another option is have the hoses made exactly how you want, though an off the shelf hose is probably a better idea if it works out.

Grigg

OK, update

I wouldn't bother with other flex lines.

Everything is installed and ready for fluid.
Except I am going to make a change to line routing first.
All new lines following original routing. At the point that the old single line from the master crossed over the cross member to the right side to connect to the hydrovac, I ran the 2 lines from the master and connecter to the front and rear half of the original.

Following the original front crossover line to the left front I am uncomfortable with how close the return bend to the left flex line connection is to the outside exhaust pipe (Fenton duals). I am instead splitting the line after the master cylinder and running the left front down the left frame. Much better clearance.

Other notes for people doing the installation:

The adapters to connect the flex hoses to the lines are exactly what is required. They make the connection and fit correctly in the frame strain relief brackets and use the original clips to hold them in place.
Earl's part # 989548ERL (-4 AN to 1/4" line 7/16-24). There is another number if you use 3/16 line.
However because of the depth if the fitting you need to use a Long flair nut on the line or the threads won't tighten. Randy, you can look up the other # and add them both to the "need to buy list".

I mentioned that I had a real problem getting the original Banjo bolts for the ford calipers. Don't bother trying to get them because they don't work.
Ford uses a very thick block on the end of the flex hose. Therefor they use an extra long ( 1-1/8")banjo bolt.
The kit flex line has a much thinner banjo connection so the ford bolts screw in too far and hit the piston. An off the shelf 3/8" x 7/8" banjo bolt will work just fine. (way too much drama)

Tomorrow I will upload some more pictures after I change the line and vacuum bleed the system.
I will have to get a long piece of vacuum hose to temporarily connect the booster to the manifold fitting since all the vacuum fittings (2 speed rear, brakes etc) are on the firewall and the cab is off.
Then I can see what the peddle feels like.

Looking pretty good!

Is anyone else besides Tango started to install a kit?
since both of us are doing modifications to the kit, I was wondering if anyone had started an "as designed" install?

I haven't started mine yet. I have to wait a few months to get the other components. I just finished a 3 year resto on my truck, and my sweet wife has a LONG list of things for me to do, and for us to buy. I promised that the disc brakes would follow 'her turn'.

I know how that goes. "If Mama ain't happy..."

Can't do much with my kit right now as I'm having fits finding replacements for my wheel bearings.

Also, I'm having a local machine shop sleeve down the four spindle mounting holes on the caliper bracket from 9/16 to 1/2". The bolt sizes are the only real difference between the 1.5 ton axle (mine) and the 2 ton axle (the kit). Randy has said he can easily fab kits for anyone wanting to put his disk system on ton-and-a-halfs by just drilling smaller holes where needed. Other than that, the only other mod is to flip the caliper brackets to the front of the wheel to clear the tie rod end.

If you want excellent "stoppers" for your 1.5...give Randy a shout and talk.

Tango, are you looking for barrel rollers?

Yep...I just located a couple of NOS inner bearings via Ebay that match the updated factory Hyatt numbers (11410 Z) for about $25 bucks apiece. The outers that were on my rig were both Timkins that are still available...with the catch that NAPA (and the only other vendors I've found that have them) want $250 bucks apiece for the suckers! They are 15574 A's.

If anyone has come across valid replacements that are less...please...let me know.

PS...I did just come across them at WBC Industrial. They get $674.20 each. ??????

By updated Hyatt do you mean tapered instead of barrel?

$25 ea. for barrel? Wow, I'd be temped to resell them at 3X and go on looking.

Guess I am pulling my hubs back off and doing a good cleaning after having mine off and on so many times while fitting those caliper brackets. Didn't realize these were so expensive and hard to find. I do still have the original barrel rollers in mine...

Well the installation is complete (initially).
Running the separate line to the LF puts it nowhere near the exhaust.
I added pictures to photobucket. Have never found how to delete pics from there, would make it neater to eliminate some less relevant ones.
Have to make a few line to frame mounting clips (not enough originals)and get a plug for the front 'T' where I took the crossover pipe off.
I connected a temporary vacuum line from the booster to the manifold so I can see what the pedal feels like after the system is bleed. With any luck that will happen some time tomorrow.

http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/jsdesign2/library/

Lookin' good Jim! --- Since I'm going diesel, I need to work with an all hydro setup. I don't want to rely on an electric pump. Should be interesting.

The Hyatt bearings are the factory original barrel rollers. The Timkins are tapered roller bearings.

Hey Jim...I have a complete 2 ton front axle laying in my shop. Both spindles appear fine but I think new kingpins are in order. PM me if you are interested.

Hey Jim --- How goes the installation?

On hold for the moment.
Had some problems with brake line leaks. The first was my bad. But after that I went through 2 FLAPS double flare tools. Both junk. Waiting for a quality hydraulic flaring tool to arrive. Wasted too long on low cost/quality crap, would have been ahead of the game if I paid the $300 a week ago.

Putting the Dynamat insulation in the cab while I wait.

Understood. Getting all those double flares right (perfect) is critical and definitely takes the proper equipment. Let us know what brand/type you wind up using and how it goes.

The hydraulic flaring tool arrived this afternoon.
Made a couple test flares. Really good.
Got the Master cool #71475 no effort to use and don't have to hold anything in a vice. About the same number of steps as a hand held manual tool but perfect flares easily. Also does metric bubble and fuel line. The #71300 is the same set with half as many dies, but discount places charge almost as much as the bigger set.

Only down side is the dies require about 1/2" more straight line before the first bend.

See if I can get the lines redone tomorrow.