The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Engine Stand

So I needed a frame rotisserie worse than I needed my engine stands, here: http://devestechnet.com/Home/RotisseriePlans

but now, I am working on getting some of my engines rebuilt. So, I need to purchase an engine stand. Of course its a 1959 6 cylinder 235. You know how it is, its long and heavy across the entire expanse, so I need an engine stand that will hold a completed 235/261.

Any ideas on the best one to use? The link above is what I used before I repurposed it. Does it get better than that? Flimsy home garage solutions that China seems to gravitate to are probably not my first choice.

Thanks guys!

Sorry to disappoint but I also converted my stand to a welding table, and now can't give up the welding table, so just yesterday purchased the 1 ton version from HF with foldable extra long legs out front for the long straight sixes. I haven't mounted an engine on it yet, but after putting it together, sure feels solid. Like it cause it's solid, and legs fold so it doesn't take up a lot of space.

That 1-ton H-F lift/crane, with the long legs, should work OK; however, I'd spend (and I did spend) the extra $50 for the 2-ton unit. This allowed me to easily remove (and move around) a 235 engine and Hydra-Matic at the same time (no cab in place).

Tim, I did get the 2 ton crane/lift, but in terms of stand, the 1 ton (see link) is the biggest one I saw. I think it will be fine. I got it on sale for $100.

Stand

You agree that will be fine then? Im all over that if it holds this long heavy 6 banger! Thanks! I have a nice crane. But no stand. Sort of a bummer when you are trying to do a How-To on engines.

Allen,

Your link is to the 2-ton stand (I would not use their 1-ton stand).

I have that 2-ton stand
It is superb.
It is an IQ test figuring out how to place the "fingers" to support a 216/235/261 (but, once you get them right, it works fine).

I'm going to vote for the 2000 lb one too.

I have a 235 on a stand that is similar to the 1000 lb one right now.

It holds the engine up fine, but wobbly. I even welded an extra gusset on the upright to help with strength. I've thought about adding a piece of angle iron as a sort of kick stand. If you plan on doing any torquing, you'll need a couple buddies to just hold everything still. Another issue is rotating it over. It's a risky proposition with the lighter stand. I've actually had a couple small blocks end up on their lids. The long 235 is a brute to rotate. I use a 3 foot piece of pipe and chain the stand to my work bench.

Anyhow, go with the 2000 lb.

How about an engine rotisserie. We got one of these for doing Ferd diesels ( 'cause they like to blow up.) Works like a champ! http://www.otctools.com/products/2000-lb-capacity-heavy-duty-motor-rotor%C2%AE-repair-stand OTC 2000 lb Stand Very stout tool!

OTC Heavy-Duty Motor-Rotor Repair Stands 1735B $1099.97 + $150 delivery

I have the 1000lb stand and so far have had two motors rebuilt on it (L134 and I235).

I guess I must have read the directions as I had no issues at all.. even moving it around.

The only thing that sucks is that when it comes time to rotate the block you will need a cheater bar as the pivot point is just metal to metal. A full loaded 235 is less than 660 dry to the 1 ton is more than enough to hold one.

Iknowright. The least they coulda done is put a bearing assembly on the main rotator! Before I repurposed mine, that was my complaint too. That 6 cyl sticks out so far there is no help from the engine in rotating it for sure. The other as Tim said, you have to be a rocket scientist to figure out how those goofy mounts work. I might stop and take the time to address that before using it. Make an adapter that just works for the GM 6.

I have an OTC 1735B and it is really nice. Its too small for our Cummins Diesel engines. We use an OTC 1750 for that. But it is great for rebuilding third members as well as fuller transmissions. It's the best thing I have ever seen for my GMC 6 cylinders, but I don't get to work on them much any more.

I designed and manufacture an engine stand plate that replaces the adjustable mounting heads on store bought engine stands that transforms those style stands into a much safer and usable platform for building these GMC and Stovebolts with. The pivot point on this plate is more accurately centered and makes rotating the engine on the stand a much easier process.

Here's my Cummins engine stand rated at 1250lb. I like that it has a wide footprint and removeable legs for storage.

[size:11pt]My 250ci on the stand.[/size]

[size:11pt]My 230 was on the stand for a short while[/size].

Check this stand head out.

http://www.marshallsince62.com/

I assume the spacers are needed so that you can get to most of that surface for whatever reason? I dont know enough to understand why we care about space there.

Thanks Drew, I couldn't remember if you had one or not.

The spacers are for using a bigger port intake manifold on a smaller port head. They are commonly used on GMC 270. except for the H Head, to use a 302 intake manifold.

How does this affect the end of the engine/head? I am not versed in all of the different engines, but the 216/235/261 COULD be bolted up flat? Or is there a reason I would want spacers there? NOT being argumentative, just want to understand.

Is it possible to make an adapter just like the one Drew and 12port mentioned, that just bolts up flat to the block? Is there a disadvantage to doing that? The reason I ask is, there would have to be some sort of meteor hit me on the head to EVER need to do an engine that is not 216/235/261. If I ever DO need to do something that isnt compatible, I would spend the money to get ANOTHER adapter. No?

The spacers for the engine plate are not required at all. It just keeps the crank flange on the inside of the plate instead of it protruding beyond the back side of it and maybe being a pinch hazard. Most engine stands have tubes welded to the ears of their adjustable arms, so I was just keeping with that tradition in case someone wanted the extra spacing. They are not welded to the plate, so they can be left out if desired. Thanks

The spacers I see in the picture above the adapter plate for the engine have nothing to do with the engine stand adapter. They just happen to be on the same page. They go between the intake manifold and the head. They allow a larger ported manifold to be used on a smaller head. I have used them on to mount a 2 barrel carb on a 270 engine. Apparently these are for Chevrolet. They may or may not fit GMC but the idea is the same. I use a OTC 1735B and I don't need an adapter, but most engine stands are universal and have arms that adjust for different engines. If I had a universal stand that is not supported on both ends, I would definitely use the adapter plate. It scares me every time I see someone working on an engine that is bouncing around. Before I got my OTC stand, I used to bolt a 2x4 to the water pump holes and use that for a leg. Even with a stand with wide spread legs, it would scare me to torque head bolts or main caps with the engine unsupported in front and a universal adapter in the rear.

I think originally I was talking about the manifold spacers and the other question was the spacers for the engine stand.

I think the double ended finger mount/adapters are common for 'generic' stands. I googles how to attach the 235 to the 1k HF stand and did what they did.

I used Grade 8 bolts and some washers/nuts. Once you do it it's very easy to see how the fingers work.

The mount plate would be quicker if you had to work throught a lot of common bell housing fit motors... but the in the end the fingers work and will fit many more motors.

The last time I turned my 235 (after all the bearing caps were in place) was I put the handle on and actually turned from the front. Lift up on the motor a bit and roll it over. Most of the resistance seems to be from the rear pivot. Still sucked, but was easier.

Sadly, I don't think your modified adapter is going to work with this engine stand. I am truly amazed at how much Harbor Freight has stepped up their game when it comes to this engine stand.

The plate is a full 3/4" and the round mounting for it is exactly as follows:

1) Inner Diameter of the round OUTSIDE mount is 3-1/16"
2) Outer Diameter of the round that goes inside is 2-15/16"
Both have 3/16" walls.

http://devestechnet.com/DSC01423.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01424.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01425.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01426.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01427.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01428.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01429.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01430.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/DSC01431.jpg

This is miles better than the ones that were out there a few years ago. The center of gravity is shifted with the mount considerably inside the wheel base, and there is angle brackets on both sides of it. Way more stout than the other two I have here that I repurposed. Then you can fold it up just like the engine crane when you store it. Very cool!

Thats the same stand I just purchased, but my p/n was 69521 and the difference is important. The front casters on mine are fixed (welded) vs. swivel on yours. I would rather have the swivels, but didn't want to make another trip. Good solid stand though.

it was odd, but the HF site had 521 and 522 the same price and looked like the same picture. Does yours have 5 wheels or 6? But you have a solid stand. Very nicely done.

It's got 6, exactly the same as yours, ex the front casters.

See the pics tho? Its funny how they swaperoo stuff. In your case, nothing you cant fix with a few swivel casters and a grinder if it bothers you. The ones in the pics have 5 wheels and both part numbers have the same stats.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=engine+stand

Sorry Deve, I misspoke. I took a look while out at the shop today, and I do only have 5 wheels. The three front's are fixed like in your links, the rear 2 swivel. If it ends up being an issue, I'll swap them out.

Not sure it really matters. That is the difference then. 5 vs 6 wheels and the legs have fixed wheels vs swivel. It would still be a very good stand, so I am sure it will be just fine. I will know soon!

A local plant here was using the HD engine stands for windmill blade construction..they went under and were selling a bunch of them for $10 each..I bought 3 and used two to make a 240Z rotisserie.

Nice quaility and easy to modify.

Maple, let's see some pic's of your rotisserie. I'm contemplating doing the same, although wondering if legs are wide enough.

You cant use this style stand for a rotisserie. The reason is because you have to stretch a long stretcher across the two in order to make it stable. You COULD, but you would have to angle the legs back to straight again. The general principle of the idea can be found here:

http://forums.devestechnet.com/foru...e-rotisserie-for-your-47-55-chevy-pickup

I tried it first without tying the two together. Disaster. Everything wanted to twist and turn wierd. Once I tied them together, problem solved.

Sort of like what Deve did, I tied my stands together with a 2x2 steel..they work great.

I did not try it with stands alone.

I'm not sure why people go nuts over grade 8 hardware. If you put a 1000lb motor on the stand (max rated load) and have 4 bolts each one is seeing a 250 lb load. the supplied HF bolts can handle that all day. I guess that since its 'HF junk' we smart 'mericans gotta have grade 8 bolts to show them Chinese how to build an engine stand!

If motors were falling off these stands dues to snapped bolts I'm sure then internet would be full of posts and youtube would have videos show it.

PFARBER SAID:

I think the double ended finger mount/adapters are common for 'generic' stands. I googles how to attach the 235 to the 1k HF stand and did what they did.

I used Grade 8 bolts and some washers/nuts. Once you do it it's very easy to see how the fingers work.

The mount plate would be quicker if you had to work throught a lot of common bell housing fit motors... but the in the end the fingers work and will fit many more motors.

The last time I turned my 235 (after all the bearing caps were in place) was I put the handle on and actually turned from the front. Lift up on the motor a bit and roll it over. Most of the resistance seems to be from the rear pivot. Still sucked, but was easier.

----------------------

Good advice! We use Grade 8 bolts not just because YOU said we should, but because common sense would dictate, its a 6 cylinder engine, very heavy, long, nasty.. and we dont want to be in the next YouTube Video of what NOT to do. Cheap Insurance, especially if you have a Fastenal just down the road. Even then, its a long heavy thing.. add a crank, the head.. I have steel toed boots because of this sort of thing!

I used grade 8 bolts because they were dirt cheap (local bolt supply shop) the right size and were leftover from a cantilever rack I built to hold cargo bed parts (I have 3 beds to store.. darn things were in the way). Would I go to Grainger and buy them at retail prices? Nope.

I'll happily put on the original HF bolts.

Please show me ANY proof of HF engine stand bolts snapping off.

JEGS engine stands use Grade 3 bolts:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80043/10002/-1

Any proof the Jegs stands are snapping bolts?

ad hominem attacks.. when you have nothing else useful to say.