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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,268 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 30 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 30 | I have a '56 rear axle assembly with a two-speed differential. I have removed the wheels from both sides and now I want to pull out the axles from through the hubs. The shop manual calls for special tools. Without these is there another way to pull the axle? Can I put a bolt in the threaded hole and pull it out? What else should I be watching for? | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 | Hy LewyBoys, as far as I know the only special tool I know of is a slide hammer to remove the axle, if the axle will come out without the slide hammer then onto the next step, hope that helps. | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 184 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 184 | What special tools does it say you need? I've never seen any axles that need special tools to remove. I've dealt with 3 different ways to remove.
1)Axles with locking cones, need to smack the face of the axle to loosen and remove the cones then axle should pull free easily by hand.
2)Axles with threaded holes to allow bolts to be used to in essence press the axle off.
3)Just pull the axle off, sometimes can help to smack the face to get it to move off the hub face slightly, then it should remove fairly easily.
I'm not sure what you would attach a slide hammer to.
Perhaps if you post a picture we might be able to help better if we know exactly what you have.
Tad
1946 Chevy OS 1.5ton, 1955 GMC 3100, along with other various IH,Ford,Nash,MGB,.....
| | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | The "special tool" is nothing more than a threaded rod screwed into the center bolt hole and used as a leverage bar to help guide the axle back in. It's really not needed. Just give the face a good smack with a 3 pound hammer and the axle should pop out enough to grab it and pull it out...it is a floating axle and is only held in place via the flange bolts. If you have an Eaton rear (electric shift) then there will be cone wedges under the flange nuts. These can sometimes be a pain to get free from the stud. In the past I've had to double jamb nut the stud and remove the stud with the cone still attached, then pull the axle. Hope this helps, Mike B  | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 30 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 30 | I was looking through the shop manual and it called for a slide hammer and a special adapter. I didn't realize how easy it would come out. I went out and put a bolt in the center hole and just pulled. It slid right out.
Thank you all for you inputs. | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Hi,Lewyboys! How you doing with the Iowa 261?? Glad you're making progress on your frame! | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 30 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 30 | The progress is slow but steady. I have the engine/trans removed. All wheels are removed now. I am working on pulling the rear hub. It looks like the brake pads are tight to the hub so I doesn't want to just slip off. I should have it off by this weekend. Next step is to remove the axle and leaf springs. I want to get the leaf springs checked out and refinished. The frame will then be ready to go out for sand blasting and paint. I should have new pictures posted soon. | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Sounds like you're moving right along! These things take TIME!! I have a '67 Volkswagen "Bug",that's been sitting on blocks for the last 25 years,after a complete restoration. The hubs are froze to the brakes,just from condensation. one of these days,I'll free them back up,and get it running again,but most of my spare time is working on my '55. Thanks for the update! Take CARE!! | | |
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