BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
534
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 431 Stovebolt Photo Moderator | | Stovebolt Photo Moderator Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 431 | Good Morning Folks,
I'm slowly getting the body panels straight and square for my 1947 AD. I picked up a solid hood but it has a few round dents, no creases. It seems to be pretty rigid as well. I'm going through a full restoration. Would you recommend splitting the hood now and replacing the rivets? Is it difficult to remove that top piece of moulding trim and re-install ?
Many thanks - any insight would be appreciated.
Joe
1947 - 3800 dually known as "Deadwrench"Link to a few photosIn this world there are givers and takers. The takers eat well, the givers sleep well. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Only comment I have ever read was that the hood halves can be a bear to re-align. But, if you are an experienced body man, go for it.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | If the hood is as rigid as you say, I wouldn't separate the hood halves. I would remove the center hood strip, and strip and prime it. While you have the center strip off, you can see how much corrosion there is where the two halves come together. If it isn't excessive, I would remove the paint in that area as far into the crease as you can, than apply Ospho so that it seeps in between the two hood halves. This will stop any corrosion.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 431 Stovebolt Photo Moderator | | Stovebolt Photo Moderator Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 431 | Thanks Guys. Sounds like I keep it whole and put the Ospho seep between the halves. I'm far from an experienced body man so I won't take the chance.
1947 - 3800 dually known as "Deadwrench"Link to a few photosIn this world there are givers and takers. The takers eat well, the givers sleep well. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 4 | Lacking in experience also. What is Ospho? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | I went to my local Dairy and asked them for 'milkstone remover'
which is nitric and phosphoric acid @ about 24-28%.
They buy it buy the barrel... I brought a jug.
I dilute that 1:1 with H2O and presto change-o it works just like the Ospho which is approx 14% Plus... I have XX strength Ospho on hand when I need it for no extra $$$$!
Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Caso, what does the extra strength Ospho do that the regular doesn't?
Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | I use it on non priority badly rusted items when I'm in hurry but I really got it cause it was cheaper than the ozpho at Enlgund Marine ...
Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 178 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 178 | I pondered this gap at the center of the hood on my 47 AD. I did just what was suggested but I did pull the rectangular joining plate at the back (underside) of the hood. This took a lot of the rigidity out of the riveted joint and allowed my DA sander to get into the gap a little deeper. Then I ospho'd it. In the end there is the center hood trim strip that would cover any issues anyway. Good luck. Marko.
Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin
| | |
|
|
