BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,295 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 148 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 148 | I am looking at a kit found on Ebay. Thanks to Whitedog for mentioning it. It comes with rotors, loaded calipers, hoses, hardware, and brackets. Has anyone tried these yet? Are there any modifications to be made? Been a long time searching for this. $ 399 is the price. Thanks all This is the link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350973126802?item=350973126802&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AMOTORS%3A1123&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true
Last edited by Sharon Danella; 01/11/2015 8:05 PM.
| | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 42 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 42 | I've got a 1955.1 3600. I looked at the kit, and am somewhat dubious as to the utility of all of the parts, in particular, the rotors. Before I bought anything like that, I'd try and make sure that the old hubs were going to work for me. That kit is nice, but I don't see any bearings or a hub, and the spindle on the 3/4 tons is larger than the 1/2 tons and from what I understand, different than those on the 2nd series and later (the trucks that this kit is made for). I could be wrong about this, as I am no expert. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0306.htmlIf you can't use the rotor, the calipers become useless as well, and then you're pretty much just paying for the brackets. Of course, if it all works, well, then you've gotten a good deal on something that is hard to find. I'd also be interested to hear from anyone who has adapted this kit to an AD 3600. | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 | For not a lot more you can get real 3/4 ton disc brakes. I have a brake kit that I sell here for 395 and you source the rotors, calipers and other hardware from a recycler or parts house. http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/Discbrakeconverion.htmlI have told by customers that they got all the needed bolt on parts for $150 used. you can email me with any question. | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | That spacer is going to cause scrub radius and bearing wear problems. The bracket for the caliper should be offset more inboard so the rotor can be mounted flush to the hub, just like the oem fitment is.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 | How would this negatively affect the scrub and cause bearing problems. Spacers are a used often and the extended hubs on stock axles change scrub and I haven't heard about abnormal bearing wear. So far the lady that drives the 1 ton we put these on says it drives and handle perfectly, in and out of parking and highway driving no issues I have the truck back in the shop for a 500 mile check and the tire don't show any abnormal wear. http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/media/1947_3800/Finished/finished1947%20002.JPG
Last edited by thoroco; 01/24/2015 5:42 AM.
| | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Any time you change the centerline of the tire location relative to the steering axis inclination angle, it changes the scrub radius. Same if you put different offset wheels on. Also, changing the centerline of the wheel to the centerline on the spindle changes how the loads are placed on the bearing, in this case, it shifts it further towards the smaller outer bearing. Now, if you installed wheels that compensate for the thickness of the spacer, and puts the wheel centerline back where it should be, like when dealing with the duallie wheels used on the extended hubs, then that would be fine. But with stock offset or negative offset wheels, it would be an issue.
Last edited by LONGBOX55; 01/24/2015 10:24 PM.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Another way to do it with late model truck parts. This one compensates for the rotor offset, no spacer needed.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 | That's not my understand of scrub as it relates to bearings. Scrub has little effect on bearing unless your adding 2 or 3 inches of spacer, excessive camber however will trash a bearing much quicker. Scrub is designed into a steering system to get a certain performance attribute such as easy low speed steering such as parking or high speed response. Under your assumption anyone changing to a late model tubeless wheel would be at increased risk of trashing bearing. Stock wheels have a 5/16 offset later model wheels have a much larger offset up to several inches. I think we would have heard a rumor about not changing to tubeless tires were that true. These spacers only change it one inch which ends up being next to nothing is the scrub calculation.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 | Another way to do it with late model truck parts. This one compensates for the rotor offset, no spacer needed. That is one way to do it, my kit uses the same parts with exception of the bracket but again 1 inch in my opinion doesn't make a difference is the bearing wear. if it did wheels would be falling off late model trucks with big wheels and most all of them use spacers of 2 and 3 inches | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | [quote=LONGBOX55] Another way to do it if it did wheels would be falling off late model trucks with big wheels and most all of them use spacers of 2 and 3 inches Those spacer do cause premature bearing wear. Do the wheels "fall off"? No, the bearing design does prevent a wheel separation. I know I've certainly replaced enough of them over the years.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 | I think we will have to agree to disagree on this one | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I'll agree with you on that. Different experiences make for different opinions.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I've got a 1955.1 3600. I looked at the kit, and am somewhat dubious as to the utility of all of the parts, in particular, the rotors. Before I bought anything like that, I'd try and make sure that the old hubs were going to work for me. That kit is nice, but I don't see any bearings or a hub, and the spindle on the 3/4 tons is larger than the 1/2 tons and from what I understand, different than those on the 2nd series and later (the trucks that this kit is made for). I could be wrong about this, as I am no expert. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0306.htmlIf you can't use the rotor, the calipers become useless as well, and then you're pretty much just paying for the brackets. Of course, if it all works, well, then you've gotten a good deal on something that is hard to find. I'd also be interested to hear from anyone who has adapted this kit to an AD 3600. Here's a rotor, which I believe is the same one on my 54 3600. It slides over the hub nicely. In order to center it, you'll need to upgrade the wheel studs or, drill/taper the holes that once aligned the drum. http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/w...amp;_suid=142216084042204242893584769914 | | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 42 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 42 | That looks good! I am piecing together a system, which includes 12.5" rotors, but I'm waiting to post here until I'm done and I know it works. If it works well, however, I'll post all the part #s and such that I used. Thanks! | | |
| |