The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop How to paint EDP parts

How should I paint parts that come with that black primer on them? Do I just spray them with grey primer and final sand before top coat? Any help appreciated.

Thanks
Craig

that's what I do, the EDP is about as good as epoxy primer, no need to do more than wipe down with a grease/wax remover

Bill

I asked the paint supply shop where I get my supplies that very question. They suggested scuff it, sealer, color, then clear. That is my plan anyway.

I have found that the EDP on the repair panels which I have purchased to be fragile and easy to scratch off while fitting panels. For this reason, it is always removed before spraying with epoxy primer. I would like to know where the panels came from that had EDP which is about as good as epoxy primer.
Carl

Like Carl I find that the EDP scratches easily and some of my panel are already scratched up which is why I asked the question.

Carl what do you do to remove all the coating before epoxy primer?

I've found rusty finger prints under EDP... whats that tell ya?

I just sand it off with 80 grit on a circular sander then switch to random orbital for final pass before W&G.

What Caso said is also a concern of mine. A Chinese parts stamper is not my first choice for applying the most critical first application of paint.
As far as what I do to remove the EDP, I use a Norton paint stripper disc. If you haven't tried one of those on an electric grinder, you are missing out on a must-have tool. It eats paint and doesn't gouge the metal.
Carl

Okay guys, thanks for all the response. I guess I'm off to get some 80 grit and a Norton sand disk!!

Like Bill, I never had any problems with EDP either. Two of the parts I've used with it were OEM GM parts (tailgate and front bed panel), and I have one Goodmark fender. I just did the scuff/seal/prime/paint routine, no problems so far.

yes, I suspect the Chinese parts comment is why some folks have problems [an AD specific thing ]
I've found US made parts the EDP is like epoxy, hardly even any scuffing from shelf wear and not easy to remove

Bill

Good point Bill. I think that our panels are dipped into something which is black in color and dries after applied, and nothing more.
Carl

Well I was going to strip my parts down and re-prime but with all the hard to get at areas and number of parts I'm rethinking my approach. I also have a new issue with a couple of parts that have come with the "weld through" primer. I don't know why an inner fender would have weld through primer but that's the way they came. The majority of my parts are from Dynacore and seem to be of good quality. I'd like to just scuff and use two part epoxy before topcoat. Any body have any experience with this approach on both the EDP and Weld Through?

If you are referring to the horrible gray primer on the inner-to-outer cowl replacement panels as weld-through primer, I primed over it after welding it into place. As far as the black primered parts, I cleaned them and primed the backsides of the panels, and stripped the paint off of the external surfaces before epoxy primer.
Carl

I have always scuffed and epoxy prime ( or sealer as I and other like to call it) and paint. Anytime I do not know what the product is made from I will use DP40 epoxy primer first. I have been using PPG products for close to 25 years and my father has been using them for longer than that. Any issues I have had have been from me and not the product!

Scuff. Prime. Paint. Done. Move on to something else!

So are you saying that if we can nearly scratch the Chinese black paint off the patch panels with our finger nails, it would be fine to scuff and prime? I know epoxy primer is tough, but if the mystery paint underneath it comes off that easily, I have visions of the final paint coming off in sheets. It would only be necessary to remove this Chinese paint from just the patch panels. Not a big task.

I don't like to use Chinese parts and have been able to avoid them. If I did have to use them.... Then yes I would remove the chinese crap and then start with fresh chinese metal!!

The "fresh chinese metal" phrase made me laugh out loud. Thank you for that!
Carl

Okay, I'm going with Carl's approach. Last question on this topic.. what is the Norton strip disk grit that takes the paint off but doesn't damage the metal? Part number or hot link to a supplier maybe?

Thanks all for the discussion on this one it helps a lot.
Craig

The only Norton disc that I am aware of is blue in color and doesn't have a grit rating. I get mine from Sears.

Okay thanks. Off to sears to check it out.

Homedepot and lowes have them too.

Try a product From SAIT/United Abrasives called SAIT- Strip goes on a 4 1/2" grinder, wheel p/n 77230. Works great on paint. They make other shaft styles also.

Thanks for all the tips guys.