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#107340 11/04/2002 2:51 PM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 62
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 62
Can anyone recommend a good brand of spray paint for restoration work? Something that can hold up to a little abuse without chipping. Something that comes in a variety of colors would be preferred, but I definately need a nice glossy black.

I've tried the Krylon "Rust Tough" paint, but it doesn't hold up well at all. The "Rust Tough" primer is holding really well, but it seems like a strong breeze would take the paint off.

I've also used the POR 15 products which are great, but they don't last on the shelf once they've been opened. They're also a bit pricey.

I suppose that using a spray gun would be the best, but I want to be able to do a piece or two at a time and don't want to have to go through all of the setup and cleanup for a lot of small jobs.

#107341 11/04/2002 8:10 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 59
J
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J Offline
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Posts: 59
Kinda depends on what your painting. If you're painting surface rusted small parts you might want to try ZeroRust . It comes in aerosol and about 10 different colors. I've also had pretty good luck with Rustoleum. If you're talking body parts, like fenders, hoods, etc., I don't think you'll find any rattle can paints that will give you a satisfactory finish.


72 Sierra Grande - Maych

Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time.
#107342 11/05/2002 1:53 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 46
K
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I've used Plasti-kote car and truckcolor paint with good sucess.Most auto parts stores carry it.
Huge selection and also comes in a metallic.Ranges from $3 to $5 a can.Some cans say to wait 4-6 weeks to cure then buff and polish.

I did an entire front fender on a '77 pickup,once it was buffed out you couldn't tell it was painted with a rattle can and was a perfect match with the factory color.

#107343 11/05/2002 4:23 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 40
U
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I use a LOT of rustoleum #7777. It is their satin black. I think it's great stuff. I buy a few cans when it goes on sale - usually under $3. Can re-use them 2-3 times. I paint lots of old rusty stuff after a wirebrushing. It holds up really well. My 2 cents.


Can U believe it? My wife says: "I want an old pickup truck" so I HAD to buy it!!
'50 Chevy 3100 5 window.
#107344 11/06/2002 5:29 AM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 40
B
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A friend of mine gave me a rattle can he had mixed up at a paint store , he says they can put any color in and add the proellant . I painted my trans. with it and am really impressed ! You may have to look around to find a store that can do this but it is kinda neat . I gotta find out where he had this done so that I can get some more !

#107345 11/06/2002 6:01 AM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Bears38, about any auto paint supply store can mix a rattle can. Here in Wichita there is an O'Riellys that does it.

As for painting with a rattle can, the quality of the job depends on how much work you put in it. If you sand like you should with a spray gun job, you can get a decent looking finish. Also, if you want a rattle can job to hold up to the elements, finish it with a clear coat.


Fred
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#107346 11/26/2002 7:30 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
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A
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You might consider a gravity feed gun, they have the tank on top and use all the paint you put through them and clean up pretty easy.

#107347 11/26/2002 9:36 PM
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 17
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53ChevyTruck:
While you didn't specify what body parts and because ZR was suggested, I'd like to elaborate a bit and maybe offer some food for thought:
ZR's aerosols are ideal for doing small parts as you get them cleaned up and prepped for coating. John Milliman wrote up his initial experience with some ZR we supplied and you might want to read them as there are some common objectives.
Alternatively, an ideal way to help you schedule a final big paint job, is the use of a good cleaner/degreaser like our Prep-Step, which at a 4+% solution (in water) will forestall flash rust development for a significant period of time, thus allowing you to prep a whole bunch of stuff and then put your spray rig together and hit them all at one time with only ONE cleaning required.
Prep-Step, which is NOT an acid, phosphatizes and adjusts the substrate surface and left unrinsed, can simply be painted over giving you more assurance that your coating (regardless of what you use) will have maximum adhesion.
If you are talking auto body surface, while ZR has been used to "buy" time for the DIYer who wants to work at his own pace, ZR isn't really designed for use as a primer under automotive paint systems which the maker typically specifies a particular primer be used to eliminate compatibility problems. Having said that, a thin coating of ZR, preferably after a Prep-Step treatment, would allow you an additional period of time before shooting your finish coat(s).
When comparing which manufacturer's products to use, bear in mind salt spray cabinet test results, solid's content, shelf life, topcoatability and ease of use as well as cost.
HTH
WK Irish


Moderated by  klhansen 

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