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Joined: Sep 2011
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Fellow Bolters,
I just completed a 47 photo documented slide show showing all the major steps involved for the Jeep shaft swap in an S10 T5 transmission.

The T5 I used was a World Class from a 1993 S10 but the same basic procedure is used for the non-world class T5. Just make sure you match a WC Jeep shaft with a WC S10 and a NWC Jeep shaft with a NWC S10.

The Jeep shaft swap allows the S10 T5 to bolt up to a V8 bell without the use of an adapter plate. It also allows you to keep the factory 10 spline clutch kit. I think it's about as close to real magic as you can get. No fabrication. Just swapping parts.

I welcome your feedback. Not looking for compliments here. I just like to do this kind of stuff.

Click HERE to go directly to the Jeep shaft swap page on my website.

Thanks
Jay

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
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Shop Shark
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Nice write up Jay. You do good work. thumbs_up


In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
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Jay, while I thoroughly enjoyed your step-by-step slide show, my only concern is all of the warnings about small parts falling into the transmission case.
In my shop, mentioning these types of mishaps aloud nearly always causes them to happen. Hopefully merely reading about them in here will not 'cause' them to happen in my shop! ):
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2011
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'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by 52Carl
Jay, while I thoroughly enjoyed your step-by-step slide show, my only concern is all of the warnings about small parts falling into the transmission case.
In my shop, mentioning these types of mishaps aloud nearly always causes them to happen. Hopefully merely reading about them in here will not 'cause' them to happen in my shop! ):
Carl

Those small parts (15 bearings) CAN and OFTEN WILL fall into the case. You might be able to retrieve them with a antenna style magnet through the drain plug hole. Opening the T5 to get them out is not difficult and takes only 30 more minutes. Folks are looking for shortcuts and that Jeep shaft swap slide show is the straightest path to getting it done. I assume people will replace seals and bearings etc. as needed.

I 100% recommend opening, inspecting and cleaning the inside of a T5. Why not? It's not difficult. The peace of mind gained after an inspection is worth the small time investment.

As for me, any Jeep shaft swap I do will involve opening and cleaning the case, new front and rear seals and new input and main shaft bearings.

Joined: Feb 2014
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NICE!!!!


1946 Chevy small block truck
1941 Chevy 3/4-Ton -- sold Sept. 2014 | "Ole Rusty" | In the Stovebolt Gallery
Joined: Aug 2012
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Shop Shark
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Hey Lugnutz that way a way cool article. I have an s-10 t5 but mine does not have the fin. Did they all have the fin or was mine shaved off? I did not have the metal tag but on the top plate the was a bar code with the following numbers WG 13-52-145 & 61GCM_U

fin 1

fin 2

fin 3


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

56 Chevy 3100
Joined: Sep 2011
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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You have a very nice T5. Good gear ratios for an older truck! Yes, I believe the fin was cut off. They did a nice job too.

Trucks that get lowered a lot might need to consider cutting the fin off for clearance.

That bar code should be a green and white sticker 13-52-145. That is the only number to use to identify the year and model of the T5. The numbers cast into the case, tail and lid are part numbers and can help you figure out what you have but are of no use to help identify the gearing.

There is a date casting mark on the lid, case and tail that tells you what year it was cast. That is useful sometimes if you are buying a T5 that someone has modified.

Date casting mark on a T5 lid[/size]

[size:11pt]Close up date cast mark[/size]

[size:11pt]Green ID sticker

[size:11pt]Metal tag ID number[/size]

[size:11pt]White paper style ID tag on case lid[/size]

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Shop Shark
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Yes thanks never took into the fact about lowering it. I am keeping it to the original suspension and height. With out the fin it sets nice on the work bench. I will might add which will be a little a little off topic but i did purchase the black stovebolt shifter knob from another stovebolter here for a little touch of class and just love it.

Again great article.


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

56 Chevy 3100

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