The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Need advice on my 235

So I finally got the 235 out of my 58 1/2 ton and took it to the machine shop today. My original intent was to completely go through it so I would be starting from a known point. Machine shop owner who I went to high school with measured the bore because there were no markings on either it or the Pistons, and it's been bored 80 over!

His thinking is it can only be honed at this point, and he thinks it will not have a long and fruitful life. I asked him to go ahead and magnaflux the block and head to see what other problems we may have while I think about this development.

The pistons look good, the cylinder walls are pretty good, the crank needs turning, and there were no bent rods or any other apparent issues. There was about a 1/2 inch of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan, but it had never had an oil filter and it was running before teardown.

What do you guys think about spending a slug of money on an engine in this condition? Obviously if there are cracks anywhere I'm going with plan B. But----plan B hasn't been determined yet. This is my first experience with this situation, so I would appreciate the benefit of your collective knowledge.

Boring the cyls 0.080 is generally considered the max you can go on these Stovebolts. Unless there a cross ref to another engine piston 0.080 is the largest you can get.
I've seen talk of installing sleeves but other more knowledgable posters will have to remark on that.
You say your pistons & cyls look good?
You'll need to get a measurement of the piston to cyl gap and try to get an idea of what the ring gap would be after honeing.
If the gap(s) are too wide you'll have lower compression, piston slap and high oil consumption.
Might be time to shop around for another 235 block or full engine. Theres deals out there.
Good luck
Dave

80 over isn't necessarily a bad thing, as long as the cylinders are smooth and not tapered. The more important concern is the piston-to-cylinder clearance. At one time we used long feeler gauge blades to check piston skirt clearance- - - -now it's more commonly done with a dial bore gauge in the cylinder and a micrometer to measure piston skirt diameter. Skirt clearance of .003" or less is a good thing- - - -very little piston slap, and the rings stay in good contact with the cylinder walls. If the piston fit is a little loose, it's possible to chuck the piston in a lathe and run a knurl on the skirt in 2 or 3 places. I've expanded pistons up to .003" or so by knurling and it really quiets one down that has noticeable piston slap before the rebuild.

Find a better-condition block if possible, but don't give up on the old one just because it's been bored, as long as it can be rehabbed otherwise.
Jerry