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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,291 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | I'm wobbling on whether to change the 6volt fan motor to 12v before putting my heater back together today. The PO says that the 6v motor worked when he took it out to sell. I've bought a new core, and I'm ready to re-install with the next 2 days the last of the warm days to come. Anyway, I've ordered a voltage reducer from classicparts, but that will be Tuesday before it gets here. The local NAPA store says they have reducers that work on distributors, and "it should work on that". What do the experts here say? I asked, "Is it a voltage reducer for 12 to 6 volts?". He said yes, but I want to make sure. My problem is that I'm about to saw the old motor shaft off to get the squirrel cage off so I can get the new motor on, and get this project done. I don't want to put it together wrong. Any and all ideas and comments would be appreciated! Thanks in advance. (Going out to get start on the wipers and the heater, but will check back in periodically. Thanks!)
Last edited by showme; 11/29/2014 8:07 PM.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | I asked this on the electrical section, but since I'm in a bind and a hurry, thought I'd run it by this group, too. I've got the original 6v blower motor that came in a box that has the complete old heater box. Got a new core and 12v motor, can't get the darn squirrel cage off the 6v shaft, so I either have to put it back in with the 6v motor (PO says it still worked- he had it boxed up to sell to a guy who never called back), or ruin it and cut the shaft to put the new 12v motor in. I ordered a voltage resistor from classic parts, but it won't be here till Tuesday. Bad weather coming Sunday night, no garage to work in, so I'm doing this today and tomorrow. NAPA says they have something they sell for distributors that is a 12-6v reducer. Anybody know if this type of reducer will work on these blower motors, or should I just put in the 12v and waste the 6v shaft as collateral? Thanks, guys.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I have used an ign. resister on them I also have just run the 6 volt motor on 12 volts. Goes like hell. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Thanks! Heading to Napa right now. I just checked the fan via the battery and it does spin fast. Also have to get the set screw for the fan (lost it after taking it out somewhere  . As if it would ever come loose! I've tried everything to get that booger off, but no way. Of course, it would fly off after I get everything back together if I don't get a screw for it, though. Thanks again, wrenchbender.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Okay, the old motor does work after testing it on the battery. Going after a temporary reducer and new fan set screw that I lost somewhere. Looks like I'll have it back in this weekend after all. Hopefully the wipers will work too (until I can get an electric after Christmas) so I can get it inspected and licensed.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Thanks, jorb, that's what I'm doing. Tested it and it does work. I've got a reducer coming in Tuesday from classicparts, so I'm just putting it back in there and using the original switch. Read a search thread that suggested putting the reducer before the switch to give it a break, too. Also was told to mount it to metal to disperse heat better. I'll install it Sunday and put the volt reducer when it gets here. It's about to get cold here.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Just remember that resistor will get hot! keep it away from other wires and fingers.
Steve H
| | | | Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 12 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 12 | I've just been driving my '52 without a heater, just bundle up! Been 15 deg.
I hate new trucks! My menagerie: 1952 Chevy 3800 "Ol' Blue '52" 1979 Chevy C-10 "Ol' Red" 1968 Triumph T100R
| | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Haha! I spent 30 years working outdoors. I've got a new core and I want to be happy in my "new" truck! (Although I do have some arctic Carhartt coveralls, and 30 years ago I did drive a '51 with windows that wouldn't role up. I kept a bottle of blackberry brandy under the seat as my 'anti-freeze').
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | I drove a VW with no heat to speak of. When I was young and dumb. Turned the vent windows backward to act as a defroster. Now? darn hands hurt if it gets cloudy. Every thing hurts if it gets cold. Heater in my truck? Not an option, it is required operating and safety equipment. Sucks getting old. It sucks worse, not getting old.
Steve H
| | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Forgot to mention the other day that this is an AirFlow, not a Recirculator. Found the wiring schematic on the forum, and will get it wired up tomorrow. There are two "eyed" wires hanging under the dash at the switches old position. I asked the PO what they were for, and he said they're for the switch, but it seems one of them goes through the firewall, down the drivers side fender well, around the radiator and ends at the light junction bar(???). I'm going to just run new wires and leave the others where they are.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
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