The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Stuck rear brake drum/ seized brake on 40 1 1/2 ton

Hi all how do i go about removing Dually rear brake drum with seized brakes...?

In some order, I suggest
Try to unstick the drum by towing the truck. Backwards and forwards.
Let the adjusters off if they move.
Remove the handbrake cable and tap the levers.
possibly loosen the bolts holding the slave cyl and let it drop in a bit?
Pound around the outside of the drum shere the shoes contact to pop them off. This will stir up asbestos dust so wear a mask.
If the drum rotates you will be able go turn and tap it off.

Everything that Anyoldiron said...plus maybe some heat.

If the truck has been sitting for a while, the drums can be difficult to remove. Patience is important. Beyond what has already been stated, I have found it helpful to remove the axle shafts and outer wheel bearing. Doing this allows the drum to be shifted laterally which often aids in breaking the corrosion bond between the shoes and drum. Once the drum can be moved, carefully insert 2 prybars 180 degrees from one another in between the drum and backing plate and gently walk the drum outward by alternating pressure incrementally on each pry bar. Once you get the shoes past the ridge on drum edge, it is usually pretty easy. Be careful with the use of big hammers and heat as no parts are readily available in the after market.

Make sure you exhaust all efforts to back off the wheel cylinder adjusters and parking brake cable tension first.

Good luck!

Thanks All will let you know how We Go..! Was not sure if the drum was part of the hub or individual part..?

On my '46 1.5ton I took the nuts off the backing plate(split the ones that wouldn't come off) and took the whole assembly off as one piece, shoes, wheel cylinders, and drum together. Once it is off it is an easy matter to disassemble everything with no need to heat or pound on anything. I would be very, very, very careful trying to adjust the brakes off as I destroyed one of the adjusters trying to loosen it. By taking the backing plate off you don't have to try to move anything that is frozen.

[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/jungerfrosch/linked/P5234173_zps4f15c799.jpg

[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/jungerfrosch/linked/P5234174_zps15ae5ed7.jpg

To be clear: I may be wrong about your year, but the on most/all duallys, the hub is "full floating" and the drum wont come off until you remove the axle and bearing retainer nuts.
for a serious case, Jungerfrosch has a good way to go. You will still need to remove axle and bearings.
Agreed too- the adjusters are not strong and should not be forced. If the slave cylinder caps are frozen then the adjusters wont move them.

Yeah, you are right you would need to remove the axle and the bearing retainer nut as they hold the drum/hub on the axle tube. Nothing will go anywhere until you take those off stuck brakes or no stuck brakes. That's the fun of a full floating axle, you have to pull the axle shaft and reset your bearings to even check your brakes.

You will also have to unbolt the emergency brake bracket....forgot about that one before.

Tad

Mine was stuck on one side I used loks of pb blast and also used it on the adjuster nuts and started working them back and forth til I could adjust them in , I did twist on adjust ter head off but cleaned every thing up and tack welded it back on with a wire welder , just take ur time

There are some demountable drums that are held on with 2 countersunks screws onto teh hub, however, if teh drum is stuck, I would do as Pual advised.

John G

Just curious how did you split the nuts on the backing plate that wouldn't come off? My studs/nuts on the backing plate sheared and spin with no room for a nut cutter to split them.

one thing with big bolts, (1 1/2 ton and larger) the park brake is on the back of the transmission, not in the rear axle so, you don't have to worry about that.