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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 37 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 37 | I recently purchased replacement brake adjusters for the rear of my 1 1/2 ton. They are the disc type with the bolt head. My question is: How were the discs fastened to the flat on the bolt? Was the end of the bolt just peened over the disc, or how does it stay on?
Saving American history one rust bucket at a time. When they're gone, they're gone forever!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 37 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 37 | Sorry, 1946 Chevy 1 1/2 ton rear end
Saving American history one rust bucket at a time. When they're gone, they're gone forever!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,002 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,002 | Just shooting from the hip but if your truck is like my '50 COE, the end of the bolt is peened over the disc. My truck has Huck brakes which should be the same as yours and my adjusters are OK so far. Just in case I have problems in the future, I was able to obtain NOS replacement bolts and discs and I had the same question. Looking at the adjusters on the truck, they are peened on. I think it would be difficult to do this on the truck and might require removal of the backing plate so you can put the assembly in a press.
Kent | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,608 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,608 | I recently purchased replacement brake adjusters for the rear of my 1 1/2 ton. They are the disc type with the bolt head. My question is: How were the discs fastened to the flat on the bolt? Was the end of the bolt just peened over the disc, or how does it stay on? Yes they originally were peened over to attach, not the most durable fastening technique. They can be MIG welded on, just try to do it without building up enough heat to damage the spring. I welded mine similar to the way you would weld sheet metal, a little spot here, let cool; a little spot there, let cool. I would imagine picking a good cool/cold day in WI would work well in dissipating heat as well.
Last edited by Paul_WNC; 10/29/2014 9:57 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 37 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 37 | Thanks! Just welded em on as recommended. Work great. Thanks again !
Saving American history one rust bucket at a time. When they're gone, they're gone forever!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 120 | Ok I might be late here but i just had some trouble with mine.
I welded the disc to the bolt, yes it was originally peened. It doesnt take much and you wont hurt the springs.
The problem was the lack of clearance between the weld on the disc face and the adjuster cap on the slave cylinder. The adjuster cap has the teeth all around the outside, was aftermarket, made in argentina, and the casting was machined about 2mm .080" off centre so that for half the turn it jammed on the adjuster disc. The brakes were firm at the pedal but did not work. You could not see it with the drum off, as the shoes can move free with the drum off. I found the problem at a local testing station's rolling road brake tester.
So careful not to use too much weld!
I mounted the adjuster cap on internal jaws in the lathe, turned it properly round, filed the teeth, and fixed it. And ground the weld on the adjuster disc down a bit.
'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
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