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| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 93 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 93 | Where is the corect place? I was thinking battery to frame, but as my buddy explained, moter mounts are rubber.He says fender well. Could be a good cause of my proublems, always a ground proublemmmmm.....Paul | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | One ground from battery to frame. Then one ground strap from frame to engine block. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Paul,
Your buddy must not know Advance-Design truck wiring. As twotone posted, the motor mounts have no affect on the normal/correct grounding.
As twotone posted, ground-cable/strap from battery to the frame behind the battery.
A ground strap/cable from the frame to the top of the clutch/flywheel housing was specified for 47-55.
Nonetheless, all ground points/connections should be clean metal (preferably treated with conductive, anti-oxidant grease); and, if your system is still 6v, the gauge of all battery cables/strats (including ground cables/straps) should be no thinner than 2 gauge (1 gauge, or down to 00 gauge (2/0 gauge) is preferred).
| | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 93 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 93 | Sounds good, still 6volt, will replace both grounds. Thanks soooooo much. Everybody here on this sight really help us that Love these trucks, but don't know too much and relied on others to help.Thanks again you are a great bunch.....Paul | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | While grounding battery to frame with a heavy jumper to the engine block or bellhousing might be technically correct, it adds a couple of connection points for corrosion, road grime, salt and other contaminants to accumulate in the path from battery to starter and back. I prefer to have a HEAVY ground cable attached from the battery to the block as close to the starter as possible to minimize the choke points for the starter current. Another ground strap from the block to the frame can be attached just about anywhere for carrying light and other lower-current circuits. Ignition, lights, and other accessory circuits aren't quite as critical as getting a good, long-lasting starter ground, especially on a 6V system. Jerry
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| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Where is the corect place? . . . .....Paul Paul, Are you interested in "correct" relative to original? I have never had a problem following the factory wiring - with the correct cable/leads and clean connections. Nonetheless, on my 1954 6v Suburban, I run a long 00 (2/0) gauge cable from battery to starter bolt. Also as described by Jerry, I run a frame to clutch housing ground strap, as originally done by GM. Actually, in 1954, GM suggested a ground strap on both sides of the frame to the clutch-housing, and one ground strap from the coil-side of the head head to the firewall (with a radio). | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 | Actually, in 1954, GM suggested a ground strap on both sides of the frame to the clutch-housing, and one ground strap from the coil-side of the head head to the firewall (with a radio). Tim, I was wondering about the ground strap on both sides of the frame to the clutch-housing. Did the 1954 Chevrolet truck come from the factory that way? Or was it in a suggested design change in a bulletin? Did they continue to this in 1955 and forward? The only time I saw this was on a Right Hand Drive truck (3000, 4000, 6000 RD) It would be interesting to read GM's explanation as to why they added a ground strap from the frame to clutch-housing on the drivers side of the engine. I can understand why they added a ground strap from head to the firewall (with a radio). Thanks, | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Your friend is right about the motor mounts. But everything is rubber isolated on vehicles. the body, the motor, possibly the gas tank... you have to "jump" all these rubber pads. Battery to motor, motor to cab, cab to frame, lights and tank sender to frame/body. All clean, shinny metal with toothed washers is required. Good braided ground cable is nice, heavy duty and max flex. Battery direct to a starter bolt is a good way to "start" out. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | jorb,
I think I might have that diagram in my cloudy mind/memory, but I forgot that it was for RH drive (and that ground strap is not attached to the clutch housing - it is attached to the engine housing).
Thanks for the correction - I'll look at the 54 bulletins, but I bet there was not a frame strap on both sides. The strap you show for RH vehicles would be there because the battery is on that side?
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 | It certainly wouldn't hurt to have a frame strap on both sides. Looks like that passenger car " battery ground" attached to the front of the engine block. Illustration (note arrow: 2.341 Ground Strap) MPC shows in 1955-56, the passenger car used a " engine ground". no other years shown. Grp# 2.348 Note: MPC refers to the " battery ground" as a " Strap - Cable" Grp# 2.341 and the" engine ground" as a " Strap" Grp# 2.348 | | |
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