The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (52Carl, Gray_Ghost, 1955 1 Series), 117 guests, and 9 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,078
Posts1,056,029
Members48,433
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#106858 01/10/2002 5:15 PM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 784
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 784
I'm in the prosess of reparing the cracks in my stearing wheel. What I need to know is what kind of primer and top coat to use? Do I need to use some kind of flexable additive. The stearing is made of some kind of hard rubber material, will regular primer stick to it or do I need a special primer.

Thanks
George

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
I have never had to put a flex agent in anything solid like that.The only place i think you need flex agent is if you can push on the panel and it will distort,like a bumper cover on a new car.I use epoxy primer(2-3 part)no laq.

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6
W
Member
Member
W Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6
Don't take my word for it, but I thought I read that the steering wheel was made of or covered with "Bakelite" some kind of plastic/ resin that they also made alot of collectable radios out of (not necessarily car radios). I am interested in how you are repairing the cracks, and if anyone has any information about getting the thing recoated with the bakelite stuff as opposed to paint


Never try to catch two frogs with one hand
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
T
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
T Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
Some guys use epoxy adhesives to repair the cracks.I have used a 3M 2 tube mix filler originally used for repairing damage to the flexible bumpers.This stuff is easy to sand and blends in fine.The repairs have lasted so far on several wheels.The problem is the wheel material is all dried up and may just crank some where else, maybe.The steering wheel covering seems to be more of a rubber product than the Bakelite used on the knobs and the steering of some other vehicles.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 43
A
Member
Member
A Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 43
POR 15 makes a steering wheel repair kit. Never tried it though.


57 3100 235 3 spd
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
Tony's right on the old wheels cracking. You can fix it in one place, it will simply crack in another. POR-15 paint would be good here for its flexability, but it is not UV resistant. If you park your truck in the sun, the POR-15 will fade out. Another place for a good repro part made using current materials.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 41
S
Member
Member
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 41
Eastwood makes a kit, too.(http://www.eastwoodco.com)

Laroke also has a good article on his steering wheel resto (I think he even used the Eastwood kit): http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm

(Sorry to steal your thunder Laroke smile )

I also have a book, Auto Restorer's Handbook, or something like that, that recommends Bondo for filling the cracks, and then says any good paint will do.

Ed

#106865 01/10/2002 10:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 100
R
Member
Member
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 100
You may not need the whole Eastwood kit to rebuild the wheel. Eastwood had the best price I could find on PC7, a 2-part epoxy paste, which sets up in about half an hour at room temp, but gives more working time at around 55-60 degrees.
I'm repainting the wheel now with ordinary primer and acrylic enamel, and so far so good. Getting a good bond and no new cracks.


Never start vast projects with half vast ideas.
#106866 01/10/2002 10:53 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 100
R
Member
Member
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 100
You may not need the whole Eastwood kit to rebuild the wheel. Eastwood had the best price I could find on PC7, a 2-part epoxy paste, which sets up in about half an hour at room temp, but gives more working time at around 55-60 degrees.
I'm repainting the wheel now with ordinary primer and acrylic enamel, and so far so good. Getting a good bond and no new cracks.


Never start vast projects with half vast ideas.
#106867 01/10/2002 11:21 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 581
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 581
Thanx Ed,

You didn't steal my thunder. It's always better not to "blow your own horn" too much, thereby maintaining the appearance of humility grin

I did use the Eastwood Kit 'an I finished it off with plain old Rustoleum enamel. Like Tony and Fred said, new cracks tend to appear in different locations in the substrate and you have to revisit the process as the need arises. The Rustoleum paint is holding up well here in South Florida where there isn't a great temparature swing.

[ 01-10-2002: Message edited by: LAROKE ]


Larry Kephart
1937 Chevy Utility Express (Deerslayer)
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
2017 Cadillac ATS-V (Elvira)
Boca Raton, Florida
e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/1998/billybob.htm
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 504
5
Member
Member
5 Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 504
George, To add my suggestions to the others,,

I bought a small cutter wheel for a Dremel tool and chucked it into my air drill. I used that to vee out the cracked areas. I mixed up some PC-7 Epoxy, (it is sold in hardware stores in my area) and filled in the cracks. I hand sanded the epoxy to get the original shape back, that was the most time consuming part. I primed and painted with lacquer. It had been done about a year, so far it still looks great.


Bill M
53 GMC Hydra-Matic

Home Page
http://home.comcast.net/~bd97/index.html

When you argue with a fool, two fools are arguing..
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 784
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 784
Tahnks guys for all the good info. I've got the Eastwoods restoration kit and have cut out and filled in the cracks. I was just torn on what kind of paint to use. I just got a HVLP spray gun for Christmas. I've got some more sanding to do and then paint. I'll keep you posted on how it comes out.

George

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 45
S
Member
Member
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 45
On my steering wheel...have noticed hairline cracks where the spoke of the wheel meets the wheel. I was thinking of using JB weld an epoxy...have used it on an antique telephone....would that work? The colour is grayish and could be sanded and painted?

Starrider


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0