The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cab mounts

I need help with my 52 cab mounts. After my starter would not disengage all the way because the linkage would hit the firewall, and my clutch pedal squeaked real bad because it rubbed on the hole through the firewall I got some help here from Mechanic who suggested my cab had droped down. I thought thats not bad, bought new cab mounts and set out to install them. Well it goes down hill from there. The floor pans are in bad enough shape that when I try to raise the cab up and put in spaces to get a little more room the floor just gives out that much more and I'm right back where I started. My question is, is there anyway to raise the front of the cab slighty without pulling the cab off and fixing it correctly? Its not a show truck so I don't have to have it perfect but I fear there is not other way to do this? Can I just beef up the floor with heavy sheet metal and both it to the firewall and inside kick panels for strength the raise the cab?
Thanks

There is probably no way to remedy the situation properly other than fix the collasped area. Some do this by replacing only the rusted portions of the panels. To see how the panels are related, Chuck the Truck's Website gives about the best detail I have ever seen. Good luck, you can do it!

Thats what I was afraid of. Could you send a link to Chuck the Trucks web site, I can't find it anywhere, found one but its on 60's and 70's trucks not AD's.
Thanks again

Opps, never mind, I just found the link. Any way to do this without taking the entire truck apart? Can I leave the fenders and cab on the frame? Maybe just support it from the ceiling with a host to keep it from falling on me?

if you look at Chuck's site, you will see that the the support for the front of the cab is provided by thhe toeboard,, floorboard,, inner cowl, outercowl,inner to outer cowll and the hinge post, all together. You may be able to pinpoint where yours has collapsed and where it needs to be repaired. I would think that you would want the fenders detached because they bolt on to the toeboard. Chuck used 2x4s attached to the firewall and resting on the frame for support. I would think that you would want the doors off too. It is important to take care that the cab doesn't distort during the work. You should check to see if your doors are meeting with the body, along bothe back and front vertical edges. It is possible to remove the front fenders,, grill and rad saddle all as one if you have some help. It was actually designed to do that.

There was a post a while ago showing a partial repair to these areas. I will keep looking until I find it.