The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Different "Path " For Frame Paint

Hi everyone. Since "Frankenbolt" will not be a a show truck, and not driven in the winter, we have decided to try a more conservative method of frame prep. In keeping with our low budget repair theme (my labor is cheaper than new parts), we have sanded, wirebrushed, rust converted, then red oxide primered the frame. Today we are rolling on Duplicolor bed liner. I will let you know how this turns out. If anyone else has had luck with this let me know. Sandblasting and powdercoating would be SWEET, but not in our budget,which is notta! Check it out at: http://www.geocities.com/pickinjim1/Jims51truck.html

JJ,
I did similar on my daily driver which has been on the road for about a year and half or probably 20k Mi.
In place of the red oxide primer I obviously used Zero Rust, as I'm the Zero Rust Guy, on everything to seal the steel. In areas that I knew would take the brunt of the beating like fender wells, I used the Duplicolor Bedliner over the ZR just to see how it would hold up. Report so far is favorable.

My purpose for this trial was to evaluate a single package system that the average DIYer could use w/o special fresh air supplied breathing apparatus. Other than it smells awful, the Duplicolor went on well and I learned to keep me and the fan upstream from the smell.

Bruce Palmer
[email protected]

Thanks for the input Bruce. we're debating putting zero rust over the primer we have???? We'll see if this combo works too. Keep ya posted.

JJ,
The red oxide primer should hold the ZR as that is it's function (adhesion promoter) but the primer layer then becomes the weak link in the chain and won't do much to retard rust growth sideways if the film gets compromised. That is one of the real strengths of ZR when applied direct to metal. A damaged area where the ZR is removed will rust but the film won't allow the blistering sideways to take place.

Also, FWIW, being a single package system, ZR repairs very easily too. I mentioned that to a customer this week and it really caught his attention. I go along thinking everyone has made all the connections about our product's strengths and weaknesses but maybe tossing some of these points out periodically will help.

Bruce, we picked up your product today. We are going to use it on the body panels and cab just as you have scripted. One question, we were told you could cut the zr by 25% with laquer thinner, but the can says no! So can ya or cant ya? Thanks.

I used Zero-Rust on my frame also. Reading from a Zero-Rust application guide, "Application with airless spray equipment requires no thinning and can be done directly from the can.
Because Zero-Rust is heavy bodied, thinning is required for siphon gun application. A reduction of 15-20 % with xylene is typical. Recommended thinners are xylene, lacquer thinner, acetone, and acrylic enamel reducer. Do not use mineral spirits or VMP Naptha for thinning. When using a brush or roller, thin to suit."

That sticker that says DO NOT THIN has to do with an EPA requirement for Architectural Industrial and Maintenance applications. Does not pertain to you. Thin the product to suit your style of shooting and the gun you're using. All the application information is on the web site www.zerorust.com and contains everything in the published application guide which I'm betting the dealer didn't give you one of...
How's that for sentence structure??

Probably to our detrement, ZR is designed to hang on a vertical surface at 9 - 12 mils wet unthinned so it will stand some thinning. Just fight that urge to hose it on. Shoot a couple of medium coats with good air movement to draw the solvents out......

Holler at me on the 800# if you have any surprises this weekend.....

You guys are too cool! Thanks for takin time. Ill try to post an updated photo of the frame tomorrow . Seems to have turned out well.

I used the Zero rust, and I loved it. Don't know how well its going to last its only been a couple of months. It bushes on really nice and covers great. When it dries it smoothes out and you don't really notice the brush marks. Hey Bruce how long does it take to fully cure?

Typical 6 mil wet 3 mil dry film should be cured out in 30 days or so. Thicker films will take longer. If you brushed it out, I'd guess you're over 3 mils dry. On a good note thicker films probably won't get real brittle either and will maintain a degree of resiliance.

Bruce,
I just spoke to your evil twin brother that works in Orance County California. He even has the same name. The whole time I was thinking "Bruce Palmer?.... Man that name is familiar"
He is a Dry Utillities Consultant. Interesting.

-Sean