The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay After market Turn signal wiring

I am installing an after market turn signal switch in my 61 Apache. I have the schematic from the manufacture. The schematic shows 2 of the seven wires going to the flasher but it also shows a hot wire going to the flasher. In my mind there then should be 3 spades on the flasher yet everyone I have seen is only two spades/wires. Can someone tell me how to wire this into the flasher please?

with a 7 wire unit, you should have a 3 pin flasher, one for power, one for the signals, one for the pilot light on the signal unit - if you don't have or don't want a pilot light, the 2 pin flasher could work, just leave the pilot wire disconnected - see the tech tip

Bill

I asked at auto zone if they sold a 3 wire flasher and they said no, then I went to the bone yard and went through a bunch of cars and trucks and only found 2 wire/blade flashers. Will NAPA have a 3 wire flasher? Thank you

NAPA wants to know am I looking for a thermal or electronic 3 prong flasher?

electronic may work, but thermal is the usual

Bill

Are you 12 volts?

If you are
A pm-557 has been the loudest flasher I've found so far

...link...

There is an X, P and L marked on the 3 pronged flasher. Which is the Hot line coming in, the indicator light and the switch power?
Thank you

X=power in, L=load, P=pilot

Bill

Bill, thanks for the reply. I hooked it up that way and the indicator light will not work. If I move the wires around on the flasher, I can get the indicator light to turn on but the flasher does not flash. Is it possible I purchased a bad flasher? Is the indicator light suppose to flash along with the turn signal or does that stay solid? In, addition to this problem I need to figure out why only 1 of the 4 Turn signals are only working. One of the previous owners really screwed with the wiring especially going to the rear.

yes, any part nowadays can be defective from new, but you do need to have all 4 lights working properly before anything, not having a consistent load can cause odd things ... I think with most the pilot flashes alternately with the turn lights, when the flasher moves to the load terminal, the pilot goes out, then the flasher moves to the pilot position and the turn lights go out

Bill

I will concentrate on getting all 4 corners working and hopefully the switch/flasher will take care of it self.

Is the switch hosing grounded?

I need to mention 3 things- grounds, grounds and grounds.

The switch housing needs a good ground for the pilot light to work. Lights need a good ground to body. Body needs a good ground to frame. Frame needs a good ground to battery. Bed was grounded through the mounting bolts from the factory. Those grounds have probably deteriorated. A strap from frame to bed will insure a good ground. Make sure the light housings have a good ground to bed.

Hi,HerrOtto!I used a 2-prong flasher,and eliminated the "P",(Pilot terminal).Reason being,is I wired in my dash indicator lights. B.T.W...Mine is a Grote 7-wire unit. I installed it with an A.A.W. wiring harness kit,at the same time.I wired mine to the "Hazard" flasher,so I could use my 4-ways without the switch on,or keys left in ignition. Hazard stays "HOT",all the time. Important,in case you break-down on the side of the road,and go for help. This way you can safely lock your truck,take the keys with you,and don't have to worry about thieves,when dealing with other mechanical problems.

Thank you all for the great suggestions. I am also suspecting grounding problems. I do feel the switch is well grounded at the column, its the actual turn signal lights that need help.
Wetwilly, I like the idea of having the 4 way flasher working w/o the ignition being on.

Ok, now I am really confused. I am not the one who wired this truck so I am unsure what really went on. when I feed the left rear tail light turn signal with power from the turn signal switch, both the left and right turn signals flash. At the left turn signal bulb itself, there are three wires going to the two wires from the bulb. One wire feeds the less bright filament for the parking/ headlights. The other wire from the bulb (the brighter filament) is fed with two wires, one for the brake lights and one for the turn signal. Then I think the brake light wire from the left bulb is is then fed over to the right turn signal bulb. I am guessing this is what is causing both bulbs to flash at the same time. How should I wire this so both bulbs aren't flashing at the same time?

Thank you

If I step on the brakes when both lights are flashing, the lights stop flashing.

there should only be one wire to the bright filament [brake], the brake lights go from the stop light switch to the signal unit, and when you select a direction to flash, that brake light is used for the signal, the other brake light works normally .... here's a factory diagram for the 55-59, should give you the basic 'map' to get your lights wired right, the 2 brake lights must have individual wires that route thru the signal switch, yours are OK for no signals ["chained"], but won't work with signals

edit: remembered I have a good aftermarket diagram here. that may be better help

Bill

I say again, grounds. The path of the electrical flow goes to the bright filament. It can't get a good ground. It then goes through the tail light filament by means of the common base on the bulb. It then travels through the tail light circuit to the other side, to the switch and to the front lights. All lights will be flashing dimly.

Ground your bed.

I think the problem is solved. I did not have the brake light switch wired in correctly. I still had the wire going from the brake light switch down to the lights and not to the turn signal switch. I also needed to cut the third wire that was going to the bulbs. As someone mentioned, they must not have had turn signals in the past and had it wired for that. I still have a very dim front left turn signal which I am guessing is a GROUND problem. As always, I appreciate everyone's help.
Thank you