The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 58 truck with T-5 trans problem, help

I have a 58 chevy truck inline 6, took the tranny out and installed a 85 -T-5 with 5 speed overdrive, had to cut 1/2 " off pilot shaft, also cut sleeve that goes over trans drive shaft as it was a little to long, installed new clutch and pressure plate with correct 14spline and 11" disc, bolted every thing up fit fine adjusted clutch but it doesn't want to shift.!!,, why? so we thought pilot shaft might be a litttle to long still so cut off 1/4" more, everything together doesn't want to shift? help, any ideas please??

Did you lengthen the splines on the input shaft? Is the cluch or throw out bearing installed backwards? It's probably something very simple.

did not lenghen splines on input shaft- how would one do that? or why? everythiing is in correctly, ... question, if the input shaft is past the pilot bearing could it be turning touching the crankshaft? could that cause it to not want to shift?

When the cluch disengages, it moves back from the flywheel on those splines. The splines on the T5 input shaft are not long enough and have to be legthened. I am finishing up a T5 install, but used a spacer to avoid modifying the transmission so I can't give you measurements.

I guess I should ask, do you have full cluch pedal travel?

Do a search, there is lots of information on the lengthening of the splines. Good luck.

I have adjusted the clutch where i have no toe play so it is fully disengaged from flywheel--I did cut 1 1/2 " off the shaft that the splines come out of there by making the splines longer exposed that shaft is a larger diameter than the splines shaft

Just to clarify, are you saying the shifter handle won't move between gears even when the truck engine is off? If that is occurring, then something is binding or needs adjustment inside the T5 gear box. Has the T5 been rebuilt?

S10 splines: If you have a T5 from an S10, then the splines of the shaft are not cut far enough along the length of the shaft to allow proper clutch disc travel. Something will need to be modified. The options are many.

S10 Pilot tip: Cutting the pilot tip is done by some folks to prevent the pilot tip from bottoming out on the crank. If you cut 1/2" to 3/4" off the pilot tip, then you should be fine. Don't cut any more off.

S10 Sleeve: The sleeve that the release bearing slides on (also called an input shaft bearing retainer) is usually fine if you cut off enough to expose all the splines. It sounds like you cut off 1.5". That should be enough.

An energized shaft problem: If the shaft pilot tip is binding in the pilot bushing or bottoming out on the crank then the input shaft will be "energized" and cause difficult or impossible shifting. The same will happen if the clutch disc cannot move away from the flywheel properly. If the S10 shaft splines are not lengthened (or some other modification done), then the clutch disc can bind and cause problems.

Release bearing: If the release bearing is wrong, then it would just grind like not using the clutch at all.

This photo shows 3 different T5 shafts. Notice how the Jeep and Astro shafts have splines that are cut further along the shaft than the S10.

Astro van, S10 and Jeep input shafts for T5

Also compare the V8 Camaro with the S10.

V8 Camaro and S10 T5 shafts

I hope you will give feedback so we can all understand how you solved it once you discover the problem.

Thanks for the very good information, when engine is off trans shifts fine, question can i take a grinder with wheel and extend the splines on the shaft another 2 inches?, maybe that is what it needs?

when we were adjusting the clutch, it sure looked like it was fully disengaged from the flywheel

Using a grinder to lengthen the grooves is something that CAN be done. I have never done it but have read forum posts of folks who have. I can't say I'd do that myself.

Another option is to trim away (grind) the clutch disc splines. The clutch disc splines bind on the shaft when the clutch disc moves towards the tranny. By nipping away the corners of the clutch disc splines, it allows the clutch disc to slide away from the flywheel just a bit more. I also have never done this and can't say that I would, but it's been done and it works.

Lastly, you can swap the input shaft for a Jeep T5 shaft. The photo I posted earlier shows that the splines are cut longer along the shaft which allows the clutch disc to travel properly. the down side to this solution for YOU, is that you'd have to change your clutch disc to a 10 spline.

A person always needs to bolt the transmission in place with only the disc to be sure it is not being pushed against the flywheel.
I almost always drill about 1/8" of splines from the rear side of the disc with a 1" drill to prevent this from happening.
Some discs work fine without modifying.

^^^^^ That is excellent advice. ^^^^^

I take the brg. retainer off. Slide the clutch disc on the input shaft till it stops. Mark where it stops & remove it. Grind the grooves about 1/2 in farther in till the disc slides on that much farther then it did. Put the brg retainer back on with a little RTV & you are good to go. Wrap a shop towel around the brg. so fillings can't get in before you grind.

Lancer,
Sorry, had to ask. I see one post you mentioned shifts fine with engine off?
If so, when engine is running and you clutch, is it grinding like crazy and wont let you put it into gear?
Phil

Lancer70,
I finished my T5 install yesterday. With the engine off it shifted fine through the gears, with the engine running I couldn't get it into gear. I adjusted the clutch and it works great.
I still believe you need to lengthen the input shaft splines, but also recheck your clutch adjustment.

Gents,
This is all good information. The clutch not engaging/dis-engaging; this is the one thing that is preventing the truck from moving on it's own power.

The gears can be moved from 1st to 5th and reverse when the truck is off. When the truck is on and it is in neutral, the clutch doesn't engage enough to put the the trans in to gear. When the clutch is engaged it does separates enough to see it move but not enough to release.

I didn't have a hand in installing the clutch/trans so I will be dropping the trans and start all over. I do not recall the splines being extended at all so while I am checking on that, I'll give the trans a once over and check the speedo drive. (From a different post: T 5 Speedo Cable)

Bread
.

Note: The link doesn't work.
.

Matching up a t5 to a 261 I chose to grind the splines on the clutch disc which gave me enough clearance with minimal effort

Bread,
I fixed that link on that other post for the DRIVEN GEAR CALCULATOR.

Here it is again.
DRIVEN GEAR calculator web page.