The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Installing a rear main seal with a sneaky Pete tool!

I am preparing my 55 engine I just bought from a fellow stovebolter. I'm trying to get a new rear main seal in this 235 without taking the entire bottom end apart. I can't find the neoprene half moon style gasket that is the more modern style but I found a "sneaky Pete " tool to use to install the old style seal but once I hook the gasket in the tool, it won't go in the groove. Only the clip on the tool enters the groove then stops and won't budge. I walked away yesterday discouraged. Anyone know a source for the newer style seal that will be easier to install? Or any other helpful advice is appreciated?

If it were mine and it was out of the truck, I would put it on an engine stand and do it the easy way.

Anyhow, I wasn't able to use that tool. The tool took up too much length of the seal. I used a piece of picture hanging wire and I used a screw driver to guide it into the groove. Once started, it took steady tension and a lot of patience. I also had to drop the crank some and use some lubrication.

I tried lube, and I have it on an engine stand. I'll just take some more bolts out of crank.

Take your time. What brand rope seal are you trying to install? Try to pull it in more clean pushing it in. If you push on it you are compressing it and making it tighter in the groove.

Soak the seal in oil and roll it out on a piece of plate glass until it "grows" about 3/4". Then grab only the first 1/2" or a little more with the Chinese handcuff of the sneaky Pete tool and be sure to use the small guide piece at the block to prevent the edge of the seal groove from cutting into the seal. Roll the crankshaft as you pull the seal into place, then pack it into the groove with a blunt-tipped punch ground to the approximate shape of the seal groove. Cut the ends of the seal off flush with the block with a razor blade or a box cutter, being careful NOT to scar the surface of the crankshaft.
Jerry

Maybe it is just me, but given that you will be screwed if the rear seal leaks after you attempt to 'sneak, it in, and you have the engine out of the truck, why not remove the crank and replace the seal in a manner which is much more likely to work.
I realize that you have to pull the timing cover and front plate.
But if the rear main seal is leaking, there is a good chance that the front seal has some wear as well and you can fix that at the same time. I have never tried the sneaky Pete before, but as much trouble as it to do it correctly with the crank removed, I am really not ready to take on the challenge of the sneaky Pete. Might consider it if I am stranded a long way from home without tow truck money.
Carl
Carl