The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop PPG Epoxy Primers

Hay gang;
Does anyone have any experiance with PPG epoxy primers; DPLF series ? Good, bad, things to look for. I plan on using an HVLP gun. I am just about ready to start the paint process for my truck.

Thanks
Clem

What do you plan on the primer doing for you? Epoxies have a very limited range of uses.
What will it be going over?
What will it be used for, is surfacing needed?

I've used it over well prepped BARE steel,that is thoroughly cleaned and sanded with 80 grit and have been very happy with the results. It really sticks and is tough. The stuff is really tough to sand, so don't expect to. Best to use a surfacer over it if you're going to do any blocksanding.If you leave it sit for a few days scuff it before topcoating.

I have bare metal, small patches of plastic filler and other primers. I'm told by the PPG retailer in my area that this primer will convert/seal light rust, is good on all types of surfaces. It will self etch on to bare metal and it can be top coated directly with the finsh color.

Your dealer is wrong, it isn't going to "convert" dittily. It will "seal" out moisture from feeding the rust though. Epoxy is very sticky, that is it's ONLY quality. Because it sticks so well it protects the metal even when chipped. But etch primer will protect even more, IT does a conversion "sort of". It's acid bites the metal and is similar to a conversion coating that leaves a phosphoric acid coating. So etch then epoxy is the ultimate for corrosion protection. But again, epoxy is horrible to work with as far as sanding. It doesn't replace the use of urethane for surfacing.

So it's probably better to use a self etch primer on bare spots and then use a urethane primer over that? Then seal the primer and then top coat?

Thanks
Clem

i don't know what process you're gonna settle on, but it sounds like it's gonna be bulletproof when yer done. i also don't know what experiance you have or how much, but consuder this. the overspray from this stuff will stay on whatever it touches as well as it stays on the frame---in short---it CAN be a mess, so cover anything you don't want-uh----"dusted". READ CAREFULLY the manufacturers instructions on p.p.e. (personal protection equipment) AND FOLLOW THOSE INSTRUCTIONS TO THE ABSOLUTE LETTER. i don't know if yer gonna shoot this in a paint booth or garage or driveway or what, but epoxy and urethane type paints are known for durability, and health problems. i don't suppose it would be much fun running out of oxygen in your portable tank before running out of gas in the bolt. of all the guys who post in this section i've learned to trust and respect martinsr. that's not sayin' there ain't some pretty knowledgeable people, it just he seems to me to have the most. i've shot semi trucks to powerboats, even a locomotive, and lined tank cars, but that was years ago, lots of improvements since then. i don't know what experiance or knowledge you have, probably more than me, i just want to remind you of the health risks--- so you, and the old bolt have many years of good happy service together. for me, i intend to wire brush the frame, metal prep it, and coat with por 15, scuff and cover with good old rustoleum black. i built a 72 4wd truck a few years back, then sold it 3 years ago. saw it last month, and everything still looks like new. my way may not be best, like i said, lots of improvements. good luck with yer ride, hope it comes out great

Thanks for the kind words koolkar!
Clem, you have a good idea of how to get it done there. The urethane primer should be shot on complete panels (don't spot prime). This is not always needed but it can eliminate many problems. If you do prime complete panels, there is no need to seal. If you are using a good quality urethane primer and sand it with 400-500 it will give you GREAT base for your color. Have you seen my "Basics of Basics" on paint technology? I cover the use of sealers and primers in it.

Thanks for your help ! I have a new set of front fenders and I'm about ready to start priming them. I have been making sure they fit up okay. What I have done in the past was use an etch primer on the bare metal areas & plastic. Then go over the entire part with a good urethane primer. I did the bed and rear fenders 3 years ago and they seem to hold up great. But I haven't had time to lay down the color. So I gess I should do the big scuff & re-coat the box and rear fenders once more. Then add the color. My experiance is limited when it comes to body work.

Sir
I'm not sure if I have seen your articles. I'll give them a search and see if I can find them. I might add to Koolkar's opinion. He is right. I have read alot of good solid articles and replys from you. MartinSr, you and the rest of the kind people on this site make a great place ! Thanks for all your help.

Clem