The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Brand new engine and already leaks oil

Hi all,
Finally got the engine in the truck and running. (after about a year in the shop and a lot of learning).Check out the URL below for pics.
Got one more issue though. I have oil coming out of a small hole in the block just in front of the downdraft tube and just above the fuel pump. It doesn't seem to be a threaded hole, so not sure what its for. If I use a flash light I can see the cam spinning while it's running so it has to be plugged with something. Did I forget something else when I put the engine together?
Engine pics - http://s459.photobucket.com/user/Rickrestivo/library/Truck%20%20engine

Rick,

Post a link to a photo, if possible.

It sounds like that is the hole for a screw/bolt to a sheet metal deflector for drips from the road draft tube inside the block?

double posted

This pic may be helpful. Look at the left, and down for the clamp and bolt. The bolt hole is open and will leak if not closed. Use a short bolt that won't extend into any moving parts. Some teflon tape will keep it from weeping.

http://www.trifive.com/garage/55%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/6-6.gif

Picture is from a later model engine but most are like this one. My 235 has another bolt to the oil pan so there might be a difference in the support clamp. If yours is secure, then just close off the hole you are not using.

Here's the link to the picture of the hole that oil is leaking from. From all the posts I've read I'm guessing there should be a baffle in the engine that's not there. Guess I'll just plug the hole for now until I drop the oil pan.
Got a leak at the rear main, so don't think it will be too long.
Thanks all.
http://s459.photobucket.com/user/Rickrestivo/library/engine

That is one of the holes, you will find another below the road draft tube. Here is a LINK to a picture of the screw locations.

Thanks, knowing there are actually 2 holes will definitely help in plugging the leak.

Back at it again. My rear main seal is leaking a little. Apparently the rope seal I installed was made for engines earlier than mine. (Wish I would have read that Stovebolt post before) So I'm going to pull the pan again. I want to install a new oil deflector when I do. Been looking around for one with no luck. An ideas where I can find an oil deflector / bolts for my 235? If it makes a difference, it's a 1960 235.

It's a very simple piece to fabricate if necessary. All it does is prevent splashed oil from the crankshaft from going straight into the road draft tube, so anything that will shield the hole from thrown oil and still allow vapors to exit will be sufficient.
Jerry

I have some spare deflectors if needed. PM me.
Curious about your comment about the seal being for an earlier engine. 216,235 and 261 use the same rope seal. The only difference in the 1956 and later engine is there is a Neoprene replacement for these.

Thanks Dave,
I met an old stoveboloter a couple of weeks ago. I have a call into him to see if he as a deflector. If not, I'll let you know.

My engine is a 1960, I assumed the leak was because I used a rope seal when I should have used a neoprene seal. Could be that I just put it together wrong too. I'll know more when I drop the pan. May have to wait a couple of weeks though, Average temp outside is over 100. too hot to be laying under a truck.

I didn't figure it would be too hard to fabricate, but I have no idea what it looks like, how far it sits from the inlet to the draft tube, etc. This time I'd like to replace it with the correct part. Maybe next time I rebuild one of these I'll be a little more adventurous.

Hey Jerry,

I didn't figure it would be too hard to fabricate, but I have no idea what it looks like, how far it sits from the inlet to the draft tube, etc. This time I'd like to replace it with the correct part. Maybe next time I rebuild one of these I'll be a little more adventurous.
Thanks,

What brand rope seal did you use? If anything but a "Best" brand seal and it is tough to guarantee a leak free job.
Correct bearing clearance is also very important in a leak free main.

Hi all,
Just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice I've received from you. It's been a 16 month project, but where once was a dead engine I now have a great running brand new engine. Just took it out on the road for a short test drive. re-torqued the head and readjusted the valves. I'm a happy camper..

Got one question though. The temp gauge shows the truck running hot. the engine, radiator and thermostat are all new (180 degree thermostat) Only thing original is the gauge.
Thinking of buying a generic temp gauge. Just want to know if there is anything special I should be aware of. How can guarantee that the gauge I buy is accurate? Really don't want to do something stupid and ruin all the work I did.

Thanks again..

If your engine is not timed correctly it will run hot.

Good to know. I timed it using a vacuum gauge. I'll try setting the timing with a timing light, see it it makes a difference.

Did you do a stovetop test of the thermostat, making sure it opens at 180, before installing it?

Yes I did, I thought that with a new engine and radiator, the only things that could be causing my problem would be the thermostat and the sending unit/gauge. Thermostat works like a champ, which is why I want to purchase a new gauge.
I'm assuming all temp gauges operate the same and that I can purchase a generic unit. But as I said earlier, don't want to do something stupid and mess up my engine.

You might want to try a 160 thermostat. I use one and my 59 235 runs fine.---Jack

Hey there Rick,
Did I miss something? Glad you got her running and are happy, but what was the result of the oil leak?
Phil...

Think I will, Want to check the timing again and I think I'll pick up a generic gauge. I'd really like to know what temp the engine is running at.

Tomorrow I start on the brakes.