The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help! Can't get oil to my rocker assy.

Been rebuilding my 1960 235 for my '59 3600 pick-up for almost a year. It's definitely been a learning experience. I thought I was finally ready to start this puppy up. I poured over the old forums to make sure I did everything right. the last thing left is to prime the oil pump and make sure the new engine is completely lubricated. before I try to start it and break in the cam.
That's where I ran into another problem. I've removed the distributer, cut off an old screwdriver bit, hooked it to my drill and have spun the heck out of the pump. Not getting anything to the top end. I know the pump is working because if has completely filled my oil filter canister. and it even found a leak in the line I ran to the oil gauge.
I've removed the rocker arm assembly to see if that might be part of the problem, but still not getting anything to the head.
I'm beginning to wonder if I forgot to install something in the engine when I put it together. Anyone have any ideas on what steps I should do to figure out why I have no oil to my rocker arm assembly?

I would appreciate any assistance I can get.

Thanks, VCRick, aka rookie..

I would pull the center head bolt on the passenger side(bolt number one at the bottom of the page in the link below) and try spinning the pump. If you do not get oil there I would suspect the wrong lifters were used.
I would also recommend you read about the rocker oiling on Tim's web site.

Thanks Dave, What a great web site. This really helps in understanding the issue I'm having. From what I've read, my lifters are correct. The new lifters do have the annulus around the lifter body. I had to go through 4 different heads to find a good one, and according to the casting numbers on my head, it's used in 56-62 235 engines.
So, if I take the #1 head bolt out and I do see oil what does that tell me? If I don't see oil, what does that tell me?
I guess I could run an external line from the out put to the external oil filter to the external oil port on the head, but I'd rather not. I put a lot of work into this and I like the engine the way it is.

There's a certain combination of engine block/cylinder head that chokes off the oil flow to the rocker arms. The fix is to center-drill the threaded area of the center head bolt on the passenger's side with about a 3/32" hole, then cross-drill the bolt with about a 1/16" hole a little above the threads intersecting the vertical hole. Chevy used to sell a drilled bolt like that which can be identified by a slot across the bolt head that makes it look like a BIG common screwdriver could be used to install it. It was used to solve the oiling problem you're describing if the oil comes up the bolt hole with the center head bolt removed.
Jerry

If you do see oil then I suspect the original oil path was blocked and a drilled head bolt was used (this is covered by me in Tim's web site).
If you do not see oil than I suspect the cam bearings were installed wrong.
I am not sure you would want to run an external line if the cam bearings are installed wrong. If they are then the bearings could be starved for oil. It all depends on how they were installed.

Since Jerry brought it up, here is the topic on My Blog, with pictures.

Good to know, and good to know about the cam bearings. I thought we did it correctly, but I wouldn't put it past myself to install them wrong.
Plan on working on the truck again later this week. Now I'm curious as to whether I'll get oil out of the hole for the #1 head bolt. I'll let you know what happens..
If I need the drilled head bolt is it available to purchase, or should I just find a local machine shop?
Thanks,
Rick -

I'm sure they are not available, but it is not that hard to make one.

Okay, So I've removed the #1 head bolt and spun the oil filter, (about 2-3 minutes worth) No luck, nothing to the head. So, it's not looking good. I'm guessing by the pictures I've seen, and what I've learned from this forum, the lifters are oiled from runoff from the top-end of the engine. Am I right?
Not sure if I should remove the head and lifters and see if I get oil, or if I should just pull the engine and tear it down in the shop to inspect the cam bearings. Guess it's not going to be running by Labor Day. Any ideas on how I should proceed at this point would be appreciated.

My first question is, are you sure it is a 1960 block?
If it is a pre 1958 block there should be a oil line behind the side cover that may be missing.

Thanks for the quick reply Dave. I was already out taking the inspection plate off hoping I might find something that doesn't look right. I remember something about an oil line under the inspection plate, but I've looked at so many old blocks this last year, I don't remember what this engine has. I'll let you know.
Casting number looks like 3769716. Another post on this forum led me to the inliners site that doesn't show a 376 number, but shows 8769716 as a 58-62 Chevrolet 235. So I'm assuming I'm just not reading the casting correctly.
The machine shop that did all the work on my block and head installed the cam bearings, and I don't remember looking at them to make sure they were installed correctly. (Heck, I probably wouldn't have known if they were) I'm hoping not, but right now thinking I'm going to end up completely disassembling this puppy.

Casting number charts are not to be trusted. There are no 1958-62 block that are the same or share the same casting number.
Check the casting date, it it just above the starter. Post what you see. The numbers will start with CON...

It's a good day today. I found the problem. I found a threaded hole under the pushrod cover. The hole is between the 3 & 4 cylinders and is inline with the oil passage leading to the top end. When I spin the oil pump I'm getting oil out of the threaded hole. Now I need to know if something is missing, or if I can plug the hole. My service manual isn't too clear on this.

By the way, good to know regarding casting numbers. the numbers on the block above the starter are CON3 J41. If it makes a difference the numbers next to the distributor hole are F1103J.

The hole should be plugged with an 1/8" pipe plug.

Looking in the wrong section of the manual. In figure 15 in my manual it looks like the hole is plugged. So I'm assuming this hole is for earlier model engines and I can just plug it off.
Am I correct?

Thanks Dave, I owe you big time..

BTW, The block looks like it was cast in Oct 4 1961.
Good luck!

Success! The truck started right up and oil pressure is great. Cam break-in wasn't quite a scary as I thought it would be. Still needs some fine tuning, but I'm happy.
Credit to Pre68 Dave. Couldn't have done it without you..

I do have another question. I have oil coming out of a small hole in front of the downdraft tube. I'll start a new post for this issue.

Thanks again for all your help.

There is suppose to be a baffle inside the engine to keep oil from entering the road draft tube/breather. There are two screws that enter from the outside of the engine that hold the baffle in place. It sounds like this baffle and screws may be missing, causing the oil leak.

Makes sense. the last owner yanked the road drat tube off of the engine and replaced it with a freeze plug. Wish I would have known about that baffle when the engine was out of the truck.
Looks like the rear main seal is leaking a little bit. Probably going to have to pull the oil pan to fix that. when I do I'll look for more info on the baffle you described above.

DadandSon just posted a picture of the baffle. LINK.