The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline looking for a complete new brake line set for vehicle front disc conversion

anyone know of any vendors?

thanks

We will need more information about the vehicle that you are working on before offering a vendor?

Im such a twit! thanks brian. I dont know, recently I think Ive started to lose my marbles a bit...must be getting old.

its for a 49 3100.

Dr. Mike,
When I converted to disk brakes, I purchased the brake lines separately. It also helped that I purchased the brake lines from the same vender that I got my brakes from. They were all OE steel and strait. It will take a flaring tool, tube cutter, fittings, and a bending tool. Now I don't know all the exact names of these tools but you get my point. Your might want to look to see if your Master brake has a proportioning valve or such. I am not a brake guy but with a little home work and research, you can look to a vender and know what they are talking about. I believe your 49' has has the brakes on the firewall?

Bread
.

wasted the whole darn weekend trying to make my own brake lines

i tried using that darn flaring tool every possible way, tried everything but always the flares went off center - gave up

it shouldnt be that hard. crap tool.

ill never be tempted to make my own lines again - lifes too short!

If the cuts on the tubing are not square you will have trouble getting the flare centered.

To get a good flare every time you need to do the following

Cut the tube with a cut off wheel or hack saw never with a tube cutter. Tube cutters harden the tube.
Put the tube in the holder and file it flat.
Chamfer the out side edge slightly and debur the inside.
Line it up in the tool and put a drop of brake fluid on the little insert where it contacts the tube. do the first bend and then another drop of brake fluid and do the second bend. You can also use copper nickle tubing (NiCopp). It flares like butter and is much easier to form without kinks.

yup did ALL the above and more and they would still came out off center each time.


1/4" line was much better but 3/16" steel was too difficult to be of any use. cu maybe better but cant imagine how hard sus must be.

The tool design is useless. it shouldnt require a level of difficulty this high. im sure its `possible` to make a flare with this tool - some how - but the level of difficulty to do so at least on 3/16 steel is unacceptable.



in the end the threads on the tool clamping nuts stripped! looks like its made out of potmetal! useless rubbish.

grrrr

I buy sections of tubing at local flaps and join together. They have flared fittings on both ends. NO flaring. Find out the lengths they have, draw it out on paper, get as close as you can and give an extra bend here and there to shorten run. Use couplings, elbows, tees, etc. to accomplish. Easy. I have no idea what is available locally in Japan. So may not be best for you.

I would say that your 3/16 die has been damaged. If they get a nick in the face it will never make a decent flare. I have also seen the little pin that goes into the brake line bent and that also will prevent a decent flare. Look up a Snap On tool dealer and buy one from him, they are have a lifetime warranty and are usually much better quality than the off-shore get a deal tools.

yup this is the way i decided to go, bought some premade lengths that were long enough

thanks don,

I took a close look at the pin and sure enough it is bent almost imperceptibly at a slight angle - can hardly see it, but its there.

maybe that was a contributing factor.