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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | After adjusting my drum brakes on my 54' Chevy truck I was wondering what they should feel like after I have drove it for awhile? I adjusted them so there is almost no drag, so after a drive and I jack up the truck should there be drag because of use and expansion or not? If there is should I back them off a bit more? Thanks guys!! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | if you check them when still warm from use they may be a bit tighter than you remember, adjust when cold, there should always be a slight drag, and checking adjustment should be a routine procedure, like checking fluids levels, tire pressure and changing oil
Bill | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | Okay thanks red58, I did have a very slight drag after adjusting them when cold. When I got done driving after 10-15 miles, I checked them to see how they felt. They did tighten up a bit. I assumed that was normal. I'm just so use to doing disk brakes, they are a whole lot easier lol. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | old drums are simple easy, after a while you'll know by peddle feel when the fluid is low or shoes need adjusting  Bill | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | I think on the Bendix brakes you tighten the adjuster till they just drag, then back the adjuster off 9 notches....
John | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | The Shop Manual states to back off not more than 7 notches from a heavy drag, but 9 notches is OK. One person's notch might not match another's; and, one person's heavy-drag and light-drag might not match another's.
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I learned it tighten until seated then back off. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You cant tell much by a "slight drag". The shoes in these brakes float. They can be loose & still drag some if the shoes happen to be off center a little ways. Like Cletis says, tighten to a heavy drag & back off. I back them off about 5 notches & have a real good pedal without any lock up. When these brakes are right the pedal barely goes down. You just apply pressure. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | The Shop Manual states to back off not more than 7 notches from a heavy drag, but 9 notches is OK. One person's notch might not match another's; and, one person's heavy-drag and light-drag might not match another's. You are probably right, I was thinking it said 9 notches. I assume by notches they mean 7 teeth on the star wheel..... John | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | John,
Yes, teeth. The manual actually says to "back off enough to eliminate drum drag but not more than 7 notches".
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,293 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,293 | Do the 54 Bendix brakes have the procedure for adjusting the anchor pin similar to the 52 Bendix brakes? Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | 1952 is probably like 1951 (first Bendix year) = back off 14 notches. If I remember, I'll check the 1952 supplement. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | I had a little drag but I think I will back it off some more. Like I said in my earlier post, I took it out for a drive and then checked it when I got home. They got snug after a 15 mile drive, not locked up but tighter than I think they should have gotten. I checked them again after they cooled and they have more drag then they did before I took it out, I'm sure that is just the brakes centering themselves up. I have great pedal and I'm getting closer lol | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | nak1954,
When were the rubber brake lines/hoses replaced?
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | They were replaced several years ago while I was restoring it. The last two weeks is the first time I have had it on the road. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | 1952 is probably like 1951 (first Bendix year) = back off 14 notches. If I remember, I'll check the 1952 supplement. What happened to the 7 notches??? John | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | I just backed mine off 2-3 notches, drag gone still have good pedal.
Last edited by nak1954; 08/18/2014 2:51 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,293 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,293 | The 52 supplemental added the anchor pin adjustment for the Bendix. I just checked the 54 factory manual and it also calls for the anchor pin adjustment when replacing shoes, or when adjustment problems arise once shoes have significant wear. Yes, I, as a man, hate to pull out the instructions, but in this case it is warranted. Just don't tell the wife. They gloat. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | What is the purpose for adjusting the anchor pin? I know what they are talking about but not sure why.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | anchor pins likely set the arc of the shoes to match the arc of the drum, which I think would change with wear
Bill | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,293 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,293 | What is the purpose for adjusting the anchor pin? I know what they are talking about but not sure why. I would guess to resolve issues similar to what you are experiencing. "Tap anchor pin and backing plate lightly to allow shoes to center in drum." (Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual.)
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Centering concentric circles...fancy way to say the centered shoe fits in contact with more of the drum when applied. With the brake applied (pressure on the brake) loosen the anchor bolt and the shoes match the drum. With pressure still applied retighten and...you get better brakes. Drum only tech tip. And most don't know about it. Critical when working old marginal brakes like motorcycles. And...worse if you have antique mechanical brakes. Before self adjusting, and proportional valves, and 70 MPH roads with a load. We keep trying to make these old trucks work in a modern world. They can use all the help we can give them.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 127 | Ok fellas, its been a few days since I've had a chance to go out and mess with the 54'. So I had made some more very minor adjustments a few days ago and finally had time to take her out for a ride tonight. I must say I am very pleased with the brakes now! Good hard pedal and stops nicely. I wanted to also see just how hot everything was getting, so I borrowed a temperature gun from work to check out the drum temps under normal driving. I went through town with a bunch of stopping and going, and down the highway for a total of about 8 miles. The front brakes were reading from 125-135 degrees and the rear brakes were reading 145-160 degrees. From some of the research I had done the average is 160-180 on drum brakes normally. I finished the ol' girl about 3 weeks ago, I figured I would have to work some bugs out of it somewhere lol. I would like to thank each one of you who has replied to my posts, its been a great help when one is frustrated. This is a great community of people who all have a love of keeping some of finest trucks ever made on the road. So again thank you and I'll try to get some pics of my ride up here soon. | | |
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