The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop spray painting zero rust

I know several of you have used zero rust. I tried spraying it today, but it has a high solids content and it wouldn't spray hardly at all.

So what air pressure and orifice on the spray gun did you use? Any thinner? thanks...Tom

P.S. This is for a conventional, siphon feed spray gun. The color would only spit out in spurts.

Where did you get your product? You should have gotten an application guide with it that would have answered all these questions. Plus all this information is on the web site.

Anyway, thinning IS necessary for syphon gun application. Start at 10-15% with laquer thinner, acetone, xylene, enamel reducer and thin to a consistency you like for spraying.

Pay attention to not over applying as thick films can take forever to dry.

Bruce Palmer
Salem Or.
[email protected]

I used xylene to thin when I sprayed. Thinned to about the consistency of milk if that helps. I used an HVLP gravity gun to spray but it was set up the same as I spray any other enamel. Worked beautifully.

Yes it needs thinning. I just used laquer thinner maybe 10% and it layed on great with a cheap gun. Play with the gun settings. I needed a good amount of pressure and open up the gun quite a bit for decent coverage.

By george I think I got it.

Painted my frame today; needed about 10-15% laquer thinner. I'll see how it turned out in the morning.

Thanks.

Pretty easy deal Huh? The thing that still impresses me about the product even after 14 years working with it in the field is the fact that ZR is not rocket science to work with. It goes on like paint did 20 years ago and just lays there and does nothing.... &nothing..... &nothing..... &nothing......
I have tried to adress ZR to the DIYer restoration crowd as painting for NON-painters and it sounds like we just won another convert. That is unless he finds it all laying on the garage floor in the morning..... yeh right!!!!
Cheers
Bruce Palmer
[email protected]
Salem Or

One of the things I like about it is whats left in your spray gun you can pour it back in the can! No waste!

Ok folks so you painted with zero rust how is it is in the long run? (please no responses from retailers) I bought some and am excited about it but I have had some on my fram for about 5 weeks and some of the thick spots are still very soft. I would like to finish painting my frame with the red and then do a second coat with the black but I cant get the red to dry. (I am brushing) it has been a long time. Any one else have this problem? what do you suggest?

In2deep,

Yes, I had this problem when I was first figuring out how to use ZR. I layed on a VERY think layer on a spring perch I was testing it out on. I was also using a brush. It took months to harden in the thickest spots. Lesson learned. When I did my frame (also brushed on) I layed on two thin coats and it worked like a charm. I have since used the rattle cans on everything from the underside of the hood to the rear axle housing with outstanding results. As I have not finished my project yet or taken it out on the road I don't have any longevity info yet. Good Luck.

It kind of makes sense when you think about it. Zero Rust stops rust by not allowing oxygen to get to the metal. When you apply a layer that is too thick the outside will skin over and become pretty much air tight. It will now not allow the inner layer to outgas and dry. It will take forever. You want multiple thin coats.

IN2Deep, I have a horseshoe that I show folks who ask me about ZERO RUST. I found it in a field heavily rusted, I brushed the heavy rust and dirt off. I will be honest here, I didn't do a great job, I felt at the time that this crap is just like Tremclad and it will fail. I sprayed a fairly good coat onto the shoe, waited an hour or so and applied another coat. That shoe has been hanging in the weather now for over two years and not a sign of failing. You have no idea how badly I wanted to call Bruce Palmer and tell him what a bunch of crap he was selling. darn! It just keeps on going. Kinda upsets me a bit. BTW I too brushed my frame with it. I goes on a little bit to heavy using that method and does take a while to cure. I think the best way is to spray and as most say 10 to 15 percent thinning and stir like hell ... if not the thinners stay on top and the ZR hangs out on the bottom of the can and won't spray worth a pinch of coon s..t.

in2deep. take some sand paper and sand the ZR enough to take the top film off and it will let the thick spots get air and dry. then recoat use thin coats and let it "flash" over before the next coat. I did the same thing the first time I used it. Be sure to lay a coat of the clear coat when your done to protect it more. good luck!