The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop frame boxing?

I'm am unsure if I should box the really nice frame of my 1 ton panel. All the mods I have done so far besides additional support to the floor and body mounts are completely bolt on.
My motor that's going in is a torque monster . The 70 Buick 455. Its built. Im not sure on net torque but stock they came w close to 500+torque and 450+ hp . Also I'm going 4x4 , that part of the swap is pretty far along. This truck will not be babied.
Will the stock frame take it?
what if I add cross members?
I will be fabricating an engine cradle and chaining my block down. New tranny cross member and my transfer case is divorced and mounts where the carrier bearing is for the original drive shaft.
Im considering boxing all the way to the transfer case?

I've got over 600hp at the wheels on a 65 c10 frame. Only issues I've had was the rearend dog leggin on the trailing arms. Easy fix though. With a big 4x4 that gearbox will eat quite a bit of those ponies up before they twist your windshield out. I wouldn't worry about it. Oh I also use the original driveshaft. 2 pieces can take the abuse.

Many times when it comes to these issues it depends on how the vehicle will be used and what tires you will be using. If you can't hook that horsepower to the ground the suspension and driveline mounts won't see that much stress and strain.

But when it comes to boxing a frame I am of the opinion that if you have the tools, skills and ability there's really no reason not to.

I'd suggest setting the boxing plates into the frame and then attaching them using a groove and fillet weld, that's how I did the last frame I boxed. I also recommend notching the end of the boxing plates, looks like this:

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1927%20Ford%20RPU/Untitled_zps1ef78597.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1927%20Ford%20RPU/200305DSCF0030.jpg

Yes, you should box the frame. Actually stock a 70 455 is 350hp and 510ft-lb. Considering how you're planning on mounting it and that you plan to use it hard, box the frame.

Thank you guys for the info.

John , I love the way that second pic looks. The details on the first are a big help.
If I do mine, I will definitely do it that way. That looks way better than a square box.
My truck will have aggressive 35"s mounted to either my 15" or my 20" inch wheels. Right now there is 31"s x12" mounted to 15"s . My 20"s have street tires mounted to them. It will see mud pits and more than likely pulling other trucks.
So I guess I'm leaning on doing it before I say "I should have done it." A modified frame is better than a broken/bent one.
Thanks again for the info.

edit : was not sure about HP ratings stock but I was sure about the torque. Thanks for the correction. 46gmcpu I was hoping you would chime in.

John,

I will bite--what's the purpose of notching the end of a boxing plate? Won't reduce stress line if it is attached at the same verticle line on the frame, will it?

Same kind of question on the groove and fillet weld, which looks like you took the boxing plate and inset it inside the "C" of the frame--why? Looks very nice, but is there any other purpose to it?

Good to see another Buick conversion!
I have a half ton panel with a built 455 Buick in it, but it's two wheel drive.

Here's a tip:
To mount the Buick in the frame, I found that a TransDapt tubular engine conversion mount for a Ford 460 has just about the correct engine mount centerline dimensions for stock Buick motor mounts.

All I had to do was shave some material off the mounting boss on the TransDapt unit to allow the Buick engine side mount to drop over it. Eight large bolts
are used to attach the TransDapt to the inside of the frame rails. This , inherently,
creates an additional crossmember for strength. Whether you box or not, this is an easier way to mount that big Buick than spending a lot of time fabricating. The engine sits nice and low in the chassis and I was able to use the stock exhaust manifolds. Plus, you can tuck it up nice and close to the firewall.

Also, on this conversion I used an oil filter re-location kit, so I would not have to notch the front frame crossmember to clear the Buick housing. In my case I mounted the oil filter right on the passenger side inner fender. Hope this is helpful.
mike

Squire "Also, on this conversion I used an oil filter re-location kit, so I would not have to notch the front frame crossmember to clear the Buick housing. In my case I mounted the oil filter right on the passenger side inner fender. Hope this is helpful."

Thank you.
I was planning to do that and I forgot about looking for one.
Do you think firewall mount would be to far to reach?

I am using the logs too. do you have stock column?

Can you link me the cross member used?

Im curious about frame shape and dimensions and differences between 1/2 ton and 1 ton on panels. I will post this question over in Tims section.

The notch allows for flexing in the boxing plate. Without it you can experience cracking at the toe of the fillet weld at the frame where the boxing plate attaches. I worked at a welding / fab. shop that spent copious amounts of money analyzing a cracking issue, the notch solved the problem.

Insetting the plates ensures that you don't grind the attachment weld away and it allows room for gas and brake lines, and they are somewhat protected.

Here's the link to the TransDapt tubular mount…. it is adjustable side to side so it should be easily adaptable to the 1 Ton frame width.

http://www.tdperformance.com/Universal-Crossmembers-Without-Pads
Click on the picture there and you'll see a boxlike affair that the Ford is supposed to sit on. You'll need to narrow that box to allow the stock Buick engine mount to slip over it. The 17 1/2 inch perch to perch measurement is very close to the perch to perch measurement for the Buick with stock mounts. You'll just need to mock it up and ream the holes out so they align until you can run the long engine mount bolts through.
The oil filter re-location kit has great hoses supplied, but will NOT go to the firewall. You'd have to make up some alternative.

I used an aftermarket 33" chrome column shift/tilt column from CPP.
In order to clear the Buick valve cover, I moved the firewall exit point for the column down and slightly to the driver's side. If you go with a floor shift, then you don't have any clearance problems with a 33" column & the Buick valve cover. FYI, I also used a firewall mounted brake booster/master. I needed the room underneath to allow for an obstruction free dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust system. I used stock down pipes for a 70-72 455 Buick GranSport. Using your stock exhaust manifolds you'll find that they exit straight back and align perfectly.
Available from TA Performance & elsewhere.
Have fun!

HR John, Those welds are ground beautifully smooth. Is that achieved by multiple use of grinding stones or ?