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| | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,410 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | Hello everyone, haven't been on here in a while. My bad. Got a question for everyone. My 235 c.i.d. has an idle problem. It misses at idle. I can remove the #5&6 plug wires at idle and it won't change the r.p.m.'s of the engine. I can raise the r.p.m.'s and it doesn't miss. Of course the plug wires are back on. Can't figure this on out. As usual any help will be appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 215 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 215 | Possible worn distributor parts. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You probably have a vacuum leak at the intake gasket on the5-6 ports. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | The dist. is fairly new, doesn't mean it isn't worn but I have not thought about a leak on the intake gasket. See, as always this site is the best. Thank you so much Woodswarrior and Wrenchbender RET. Now I'll check both and see if it helps. By the way, once the engine gets some RPM's on it it runs great. Just thought I'd throw that in. Again, thank you very much. Steven | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 | The dist. is fairly new, doesn't mean it isn't worn but I have not thought about a leak on the intake gasket. See, as always this site is the best. Thank you so much Woodswarrior and Wrenchbender RET. Now I'll check both and see if it helps. By the way, once the engine gets some RPM's on it it runs great. Just thought I'd throw that in. Again, thank you very much. Steven What you describe is classic for a vacuum leak. Don't forget to also check the vacuum wiper motor and hose. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | Didn't get to check it yesterday, had to "mow de lawn." That's French for cut the grass. Believe me we have a lot of grass. Just about an all day affair! I'm going to go over all the vacuum connections hopefully today. Thanks for the input. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | Made a vacuum check today using W-D40. Didn't find any leaks. I think W-D40 will make the engine rpm raise if it is a leak. Right? / Wrong? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 215 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 215 | Squirting any liquid around a suspected leak should make the engine operate "differently" if there is a leak. A combustible material (propane for example) will increase the speed if there is a leak. An oil may smooth out the engine, but not increase the speed if there is a leak. Kinda' depends on whether the engine is already rich or lean.
I mentioned the distributor issue because I ran into it with a 4 cylinder engine with a worn cap and rotor. It would not idle properly, but smoothed right out when speed picked up. In fact it smoothed out when you pushed the distributor cap sideways. May have even had a slightly worn distributor, but the new cap and rotor fixed it. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 | UNLIT propane torch is the ticket for finding vacuum leaks.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,479 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,479 | Could also be a badly worn cam gear/cam gear retaining plate. This happened to me about 35 years ago. It will cause the cam (at idle only) to wander in and out. Sounds odd, I know, but it will happen and when it does it changes your timing enough to make the engine miss and idle roughly. This disappears at rpm higher than about 7 or 800. The frustrating thing is there is no easy way to fix this and you can check about 10 things before you finally find it. Good luck. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 378 | Thanks a lot guys. I've got some things to think about now. The bad part or maybe the good part is the engine runs great after it is above idle. Oh well, I've got work to do now. Again, thank you so much. Steven | | |
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