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#103641 11/24/2001 2:13 AM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 31
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I have a 1' deep crease just in front of the driver side door which is probably due to the door being bent backwards. Is it possible to fill this deep with Bondo? It seems too hard to access to pound out, although I could try pulling it out form the outside. Thanks.

#103642 11/24/2001 5:29 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 198
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yea mine has the same problem, but there was a post on there somewhere that showed pictures of a replacement piece that somebody installed...

somebody that remembers that chip in here would ya???


May the force be with you - SoloWookie
solowookie.com
#103643 11/24/2001 7:25 AM
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I had the same problem except it was a bigger crease from a crash. I cut a hole inside the front fender and took the I.D. plate off the door post and cut a hole just a little smaller then the I.D. plate. Went through these two holes with some prybars and was able to bend the ding out fairly good. Still needed to bondo some of it but didn't have to go real deep because I was able to push most of it out. Patched the holes with new sheeets of metal and rivited the I.D. plate back on. Neather of those holes show so it doesn't look bad, (for an amateur.) Also, I probably should say this isn't a show truck. This might not be the way to go if you're going that route.

#103644 11/24/2001 2:38 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I am not recommending this vendor or this part (because I do not know either of them personally) but this might be of interest.
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/framesnew.html

Nest summer, I will be trying the left side panel because the vent "louver" to the front of the passenger door in my pick-up had been "creased" by a misaligned door (a conditioned inherited from a previous owner).

Tim,

#103645 11/24/2001 6:52 PM
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I think you were thinking of Chuck the Truck's web site

#103646 11/24/2001 11:40 PM
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I'd replace the panel only as a last resort. If the panel is sound, try using a slide hammer dent puller. I didn't need one on this job, but have used them in past with much sucess. Better yet, I read here about a similar system that uses a weld stud - no hole in the panel to be welded up. Did a quick search and couldn't find it. Maybe someone else remembers.

#103647 11/25/2001 1:50 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Eastwood Company has two systems. One uses a slide hammer.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?SKW=STUD&UID=2001112419455263&FNM=20

#103648 11/25/2001 4:54 PM
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Here's something to try if you don't want to spend $300 on a pin welder. May sound crazy but it worked for me. I MIG welded finishing nails to the dent area head down. Not having a slide hammer, I used Vise Grips to pull. I only recommend this if you don't have a lot of this kind of work to do.

#103649 11/25/2001 6:04 PM
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Thy getting you bondo down to 1/8 ince or less, have even welded a strip on the outside and used a come along to pull with a little heat you should be able to pull most of it out.

#103650 11/27/2001 1:33 AM
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'Bolter
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Hi,

All you have is a 1" deep crease....HA, let tell you. This weekend I starting repairing my doors; pics soon to follow. The door must have not only bent back, but forced back as well, almost as if the PO forgot the door were open and backed up. I removed and SAVED a solid piece of BONDO over 1.5" thick.

I counted 4 or possible 5 layers. Both doors had this damage. We drilled and set to work with a slide hammer while heating the metal with a torch (WIDE FLAME). Pulled it out about 1" and went to work on the holes at this point. We are going to try a lead filler, but I need to check on the type of paint and it it will stick to the lead once primed. I have one pic of me removing the bondo with a chisel, these you have to see.

Jake

[ 11-26-2001: Message edited by: Modelman ]


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