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The PO had the L and X terminals reversed and the flasher 537 was bad. I corrected the wiring and replaced the flasher. Everthing works correctly but the red indicator light stays lit all the time in the center position when not flashing. I don't have any instructions so I don't know if that is normal. Grounds seem to be correct. I opened the old flasher and it looks like it can only work that way.(no current to the heat coil in that position so the contact stay closed) Does anyone know if it is designed to stay on when not flashing? Thanks

No, I don't believe the light should be on when not flashing. Someone will chime in who has dealt with it.

I'd think you have a wire to the flasher on the wrong terminal [either on the flasher or in the sig unit], the 'pilot light' should only get power when the flasher gets power for either direction

Bill

I spent all day on this and can find nothing wrong other than the flasher may be incorrect. Any reason I can't tie the blue and black wire together and not use the P terminal? The P terminal is always hot when not flashing (therefore the bulb is always lit.
Thanks

the reason to not skip wires and not tie things together is it's not correct - if you mean the P terminal on the flasher is always hot, either power goes to the wrong pin or you do have an incorrect [or defective] flasher .... depending on the unit you have, the blue and black have different functions, blue is usually a front light, and black a back light .... might find some help in this tech tip

Bill

The blue wire is the P contact to the pilot bulb. The black wire is the L contact to the switch. That is why I thought I could tie them together so everything blinked at the same time. The old and new flashers perform the same on the bench with a continuity tester. The P contacts are closed at rest. That would seem to be the problem but I have not been able to find out which flasher would be the correct one. ( with open P contacts at rest)
Thanks for your input.
Howard

It sounds like the issue is incorrect wiring as Red58 is trying to explain, not the flasher.

why did you think the old flasher was bad if it tests the same as the new one?
according to the tech tip, the black wire should go to a rear light, yellow should be the load wire from the flasher ...dug up the diagram I have from my bus 900 series unit [which has the socket letters that are missing from the tech tip] ....
shows X to power via fuse, L is yellow to sig unit, P is blue to pilot,
black & gray to rear lights, red & green to front lights ...
if X & P always have continuity the flasher [or socket] is bad, my 3 pin flasher [works fine] has continuity between X & L at rest, P has no continuity to anything at rest, it should get power when the flasher is active .... when the circuit is completed by a selection of the lever, the flasher opens the circuit to L, closes the circuit to P, clicks back and forth between them .... another thought, make sure the sig unit is grounded to the column via it's mounting

my flasher is a Tridon, standard 3 pin 12V mechanical flasher, only numbers on it are 3355C and HD-13

Bill

Maybe I am just dense but I don't agree. If the P contacts are closed at rest with the flasher disconnected on the workbench then the pilot bulb will be lit when installed with the turn switch in the off position.The x and the P will be connected. (no current going through the heating coil)
Don't get me wrong. I am very appreciative of all input. I may not be giving enough details.

The old flasher did not flash. I think the coil was bad.
The tech tip applies to a 2 prong flasher. Mine is a 3 prong with a Everlasting switch. I have found the wiring diagram and the wire colors are correct. X is power, L is black to the switch and P is blue to the pilot bulb. Originally not grounded at the column but I corrected that. No pilot light at all when not grounded. The weird thing is everything works perfect except the pilot stays on. Thanks again. I will look into the Tridon flasher.

yes, if the P has continuity to X at rest than the light will be on, but it should not have continuity, it should only be hot when the flasher is flashing due to a load on L which allows the flasher to work, otherwise the power on L does nothing because there is no ground to complete the circuit .... compare the wire colors on your unit with those of the tech tip, if they're the same, the wiring there is as yours should be, you may have a bad flasher caused by incorrect wiring

edit: scroll down in the tip and you'll find the 900, 3 prong circuit, it's as I listed above, same as mine

Bill

Apparently a bad flasher right out of the box since the wiring looks correct. Advance Auto has Tridon so I will try that. Thanks for hanging with me.

Red58 Napa crossed your number to a 550. I checked the continuity in the store and there was none! It is installed and works perfect. Thanks again for your time and effort.
Howard

now just drive'er

Bill