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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 291
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 291
I have some help lined up for this afternoon to install front fenders and a hood. When we did a dry fit before painting, the hood to fender body lines were uniform down each side of the bed but the gap down each side of the hood was about 1 1/2 inches wide. The hood was closing and latching in the front good. How do I adjust this large gap between the hood sides and the fenders?


1950 Chevy 3100
In the DITY Gallery
In the Gallery Forum
77 International Scout ll
96 F-150 ext cab 4x4
2000 Tahoe
2011 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4
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Shop Shark
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To put it simply, more adjusting. Sometimes, the answer is raise or lower the radiator core support. All the front sheet metal hangs on the core support. Raise the fenders, adjust the fender to firewall rods, adjust, adjust, adjust...and then still be left with large or uneven gaps just like it came from the factory.

Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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It can't be stressed enough to assemble the front clip and thoroughly adjust it prior to painting. Do this procedure as though you were going to enter your truck in a show which would deduct points from your score for poor fitment. Close enough isn't good enough, unless you want to risk scratching your new paint job by trying to make all of the adjustment necessary to make everything fit (which you could have done prior to paint). Not preaching, just saying.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Shop Shark
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Carl: Good advice for sure. But, to do so will be out of the realm of capability for most people and hence very expensive as major metal work will need to be done. Also, you may loose points because the judges may know that the truck never came that nice from the factory. Just saying.

I got mine very close. Only real issue is a that trailing edge of hood on one side does not sit down tight on cowl anti-squeak rubber. I attribute this to the media blaster stretching the metal. The issue is minor and I chose to not fix the issue as I really did not know how to do it without most likely ruining the hood.

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Renaissance Man
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David, you may be able to get that hood to lay down on the cowl by adjusting the bracket located at the rear of the hood where the hood halves come together. See Chassis sheet metal 11-5 and 11-6, and figure 9 in the Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual 1948 to 1951. You are of course correct on how poorly these trucks were originally assembled. If it didn't squeak or rattle too much,it was sent down the road.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,001
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Shop Shark
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Carl. I though center bracket was to bring center down, if need. Center is on anti-squeak, sides are on anti-squeak. Just the portion between is up. Can't see how I am going to being that portion down. Hood gaps all around are even and within 1/4"

I will try and post photos later...

Last edited by DavidF; 06/14/2014 1:45 PM.
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'Bolter
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I think I'll be able to get it to fit closer without paint damage like it was before it originally came apart. There is no part of this project that just flows together and I have begun to expect that now to eliminate frustration. It's looking good so far since the hood is not on yet!


1950 Chevy 3100
In the DITY Gallery
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77 International Scout ll
96 F-150 ext cab 4x4
2000 Tahoe
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Gas Pumper
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So there is this movie called The Money Pit. There are others like it. Frustration is one of those emotions that you either end up laughing about it, or you can always go to the funny farm, where life is beautiful all the time And i'll be happy to see those nice, young men in their clean, white coats and they're coming to take me away, Ha-haaa!

So, think about it as a challenge, something you WILL win eventually. The reason I am so positive about it, is because its staring me right in the face! I haven't gotten as far as you guys, so I AM SO HAPPY TO BE HERE! lol! wink


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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