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#1031267 05/26/2014 9:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 25
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Should the trailing arm be replaced or can it be repaired? The right arm is separating at the axle housing mount location. Looks like the last three plug welds are broken. Could it be repaired with bolts? Otherwise both arms are straight ( minor bends in the flanges). I want to be as safe as I can but also practical. Take a look at the pictures.
Thanks in advance for the help. I love this place!

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/b8upclvgk6xaqji/AAD-zl_eRjfNnnoEqKHmVXoPa

coker91 #1031269 05/26/2014 10:03 PM
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Could you clean a re-weld them? Maybe at the seam?


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
coker91 #1031440 05/27/2014 6:33 AM
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I had these fail on my 67 3/4 ton coming home from a job. Very scary. Down to 5 MPH and it took the "U" joints with them. I would be tempted to remove the rivets and blast to see how good the metal is. If the metal is good, black smith them until they fit together, paint and use grade 8 bolts and washers to reassemble. Mine were so bad the fasteners could not be removed. So I had nothing left to work with. These are the only things that keep the rear axle in place and tie it to the chassis. Take a close look at the arm that ties the pumpkin to the frame as well. It can break at one end or the other. New ones are over 200 dollars each so well worth the time to fix if the metal is good.


Steve H
coker91 #1031601 05/27/2014 11:24 PM
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Hey Coker, Those look to be in pretty good shape, I'd fix them for sure.

C20's had plates attached to the top and bottom of the trailing arms to keep them from separating. You could modify yours in a similar manner. ECE used to sell a kit to retrofit the plates to existing arms but i don't think they are selling them anymore.

Here's some photos of C-20 arms and some links for ya:

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...0StockTrailingArmsBottom_zps413b6e19.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/.../C20StockTrailingArmsTop_zps74516858.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...C20StockTrailingArmsSide_zps8737c60a.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/.../C20StockTrailingArms001_zps77346d2d.jpg

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=397793

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=397698

Hope that helps thumbs_up

John


In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
coker91 #1031638 05/28/2014 1:22 AM
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Thanks Hot Rod!
They still have the reinforcement kit. Just ordered one. Comes with new bushings and Ubolts, $129+shipping. Beats the heck out of new arms at $250 a piece.


coker91 #1031655 05/28/2014 2:13 AM
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Awesome... glad I could help! I'll add the data here in case somebody else needs it

http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog.aspx

Trailing Arm Reinforcement Kit 902-6072TAR $129.99

Early Classic's new Trailing Arm Reinforcement Kit is what you need. This kit consists of two pairs of laser cut upper and lower reinforcement plates, polygraphite bushings, all necessary mounting hardware, and new U-bolts, allowing you to upgrade and rebuild at the same time.

While installation does require welding, this kit will give you a much stronger rear suspension capable of handling most anything you can throw at it!

coker91 #1031838 05/28/2014 7:52 PM
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Well I spoke too soon...got a call today from Early Classics. The gentleman said that they didn't make the reinforcement kit anymore. He did say that he would do it for me but there was a 2+ month lead time. I know a guy with a burn table. I may see what it would cost to have him cut some for me. I'll keep you posted...

coker91 #1031841 05/28/2014 8:32 PM
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You could simply weld them up like jay6891 did, see post #21 on this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=397698

Here's a photo: http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...Truck%20Stuff/1218091346_zpsa2c5de1d.jpg


coker91 #1032401 05/31/2014 3:27 AM
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Decided to weld them. Not solid like jay6891 but put 2" top and bottom at each factory plug weld location. I figure if the plug welds were sufficient for almost 50 yrs. this ought to be good for at least another 50. I'll be long gone by then. cool


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