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2 members (TUTS 59, 1 invisible),
120
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,406 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 | Should the trailing arm be replaced or can it be repaired? The right arm is separating at the axle housing mount location. Looks like the last three plug welds are broken. Could it be repaired with bolts? Otherwise both arms are straight ( minor bends in the flanges). I want to be as safe as I can but also practical. Take a look at the pictures. Thanks in advance for the help. I love this place! https://www.dropbox.com/sc/b8upclvgk6xaqji/AAD-zl_eRjfNnnoEqKHmVXoPa | | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 | Could you clean a re-weld them? Maybe at the seam?
I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | I had these fail on my 67 3/4 ton coming home from a job. Very scary. Down to 5 MPH and it took the "U" joints with them. I would be tempted to remove the rivets and blast to see how good the metal is. If the metal is good, black smith them until they fit together, paint and use grade 8 bolts and washers to reassemble. Mine were so bad the fasteners could not be removed. So I had nothing left to work with. These are the only things that keep the rear axle in place and tie it to the chassis. Take a close look at the arm that ties the pumpkin to the frame as well. It can break at one end or the other. New ones are over 200 dollars each so well worth the time to fix if the metal is good.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 | Thanks Hot Rod! They still have the reinforcement kit. Just ordered one. Comes with new bushings and Ubolts, $129+shipping. Beats the heck out of new arms at $250 a piece.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | Awesome... glad I could help! I'll add the data here in case somebody else needs it http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog.aspx
Trailing Arm Reinforcement Kit 902-6072TAR $129.99
Early Classic's new Trailing Arm Reinforcement Kit is what you need. This kit consists of two pairs of laser cut upper and lower reinforcement plates, polygraphite bushings, all necessary mounting hardware, and new U-bolts, allowing you to upgrade and rebuild at the same time.
While installation does require welding, this kit will give you a much stronger rear suspension capable of handling most anything you can throw at it! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 | Well I spoke too soon...got a call today from Early Classics. The gentleman said that they didn't make the reinforcement kit anymore. He did say that he would do it for me but there was a 2+ month lead time. I know a guy with a burn table. I may see what it would cost to have him cut some for me. I'll keep you posted... | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 25 | Decided to weld them. Not solid like jay6891 but put 2" top and bottom at each factory plug weld location. I figure if the plug welds were sufficient for almost 50 yrs. this ought to be good for at least another 50. I'll be long gone by then.  | | |
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