I’ve owned this truck for 12 years. The first five years were spent disassembling, refurbishing and re-assembling it and the last seven years were spent driving it in the nicer weather, fetching items from Home Depot and visiting a couple local car shows. Recently I’ve had an itch to do something different with the drivetrain and was thinking about a big block gasser but then got turned on to the diesel scene. Coming out of the truck is a 73 350 and the original 58 transmission and going into the truck is a 97 Ford 7.3L Powerstroke turbo diesel with a ZF-5 transmission.
I have this swap posted on two Powerstroke forums but realized it may be of more interest here since it’s more about the truck than the drivetrain. The Powerstroke guys are enjoying it too but are less interested in the truck itself. Most of my write ups pertain to the modifications to the chassis and cab to stuff the engine in there and less about performance modifications to the engine.
I’ve taken quite a few pictures and several videos throughout the process and will start by posting the links to them. The videos are lengthy, but have a lot of details covered in them. The pictures are nice, but don’t tell the full story which is the reason I made the videos.
I just set the cab down on the chassis yesterday so figured this is a good time to post here since I’m in the final stretch of completing the project. Enjoy and let me know what you think.
Went to visit Mark a couple of weeks ago and it was a pleasure to see his work. As you can see in his videos, very detailed and meticulous.
That is one fine truck!
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
Mark you are doing a great job on this conversion. The engineering is suburb that you have done. I hope you will keep us updated when you get it running.
Thanks guys. The engine swap project as a whole has been three years in the making. It started back in 2011 with a big block and tranny combo I acquired through some horse trading. The attraction was the big block was computer controlled and I had never played with anything other than carbs before. I did get that motor running on my stand and got as far as building a pair of cross members in the junkyard chassis before stopping and going to the diesel platform. The reason I switched is I found the gas platform was not easily modified for performance the way the diesel platform is. There’s a whole sub-culture around these diesel engines that doesn’t exist for the gas big blocks. Many small companies that have cropped up all around the country whose sole existence is making performance parts for the Powerstorke and Cummins (Dodge) engines. The only limit for buying performance parts for these engines is your wallet.
I gathered up all the big block stuff I had acquired and again did some trading and managed to get the 97 F250 Powerstroke truck as the donor vehicle for the swap project. Got lucky; it’s a low mileage (175 K) motor, 2wd that was fleet maintained by a fence company that’s owned it since new. The body of the truck didn’t have a straight panel on it, the interior looked like a dog fight had taken place in it but the drivetrain ran like a top.
I’ve tried to capture the biggest components of the swap in the pictures and the videos, but there’s still a ton of smaller details that I haven’t mentioned. I’d need to make a couple more supplemental videos to capture everything, so if anyone has any questions please ask.
This project has actually turned into a money maker for me. Well, at the moment it’s a money off-setter since it’s helping to finance the project but has the potential to keep on giving after the project is paid for. I mentioned earlier that an entire sub-culture exists and now I’ve joined it. The fuel conversion pieces I machined for the engine became an instant hit on the diesel boards that guys were asking me to make one for them. I sold several and the requests kept coming so I now offer a complete kit that converts the first generation Powerstroke engine to allow the use of an electric fuel pump and remote filter system. I’ve sold a little over 50 kits to date with many sales pending. Below is a couple videos about what I’m doing. The first is the installation video for the kit which you only need to watch the first three minutes to get the full explanation. The second video is a tool I had to make so I could repetitiously make the fuel lines for the kits. It’s a short (and fun) video that you can watch the whole way through.
My '55 T.F. runs great,(261 Jobmaster),but this looks like a great alternative to an L-6 replacement,if you have the funds. GREAT VIDEO'S!! AWESOME TRUCK!! THANKS FOR SHARING!!
Thanks. I’ll be sure to keep posting the progress of the project. I’m very close to finishing and getting the engine started for the first time in its new home and I’ll make a short video of that event.
At the end of one of the video’s I mentioned having to stuff the original tachometer from the donor truck into an alternate case using an aftermarket tachometer. The reason I did this is the original tachometer is driven by the computer and uses a Ford proprietary protocol, so no aftermarket tachometers can be driven by it. The tachometer is extremely important as a diagnostic tool when/if issues happen with the engine. The computer determines engine timing based on a camshaft position sensor, which is also displayed to the tachometer. If engine starting issues occur, the first thing to check is movement of the tachometer while cranking the engine. I definitely wanted the original tachometer moved over, so that’s why I went through the effort to cleanly install it. Here are a couple pictures that walk through the steps I did to re-package it.
Here's a couple picture of the "power distribution" panel I came up with. The panel mounts under the dash, against the firewall, drivers side, all the way up and to the left. You can see the new clutch activation rod in the last pic.
Top left is a ground terminal block, top right is the horn relay, middle section is a pair of relays I salvaged from the donor truck, they were the trailer tow package relays. One relay is for switched +12v and connects to the large red terminal block at the bottom. The other relay is switched by the headlight switch and connects to the small red terminal lug on the lower right (missing in the picture). I'll attach auxiliary lights to that lug (cab roof lights, trailer lights, gauge lights, etc). The single stud red block on the lower left is the battery lug (live +12v always). This setup will make adding and removing stuff easy now and in the future.
Set the radiator this weekend and everything looks good. I have about a half inch of clearance between the harmonic balancer and the fan motor. The bottom fan is a Spal 13” medium duty and the top fan is a Spal 13” heavy duty. The placement of the motor for the top fan worked out nice by fitting just inside the serpentine belt system where there’s large open space between pulleys. I forgot to snap pics of the upper and lower hoses, but they fit great too. The top hose is the original from the donor truck and the lower hose is the original from the donor with a small modification.
The google pics don't work. This is why we need a way to post pics to this site. It really gets old on all the sites that use offsite photos, and the links are all nonfunctional because of deactivated accounts or the site is just plain gone.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Picture issues could be a google plus thing. It wants me to sign up and I have no intentions of that. I do use google email and picasa for pictures but google plus sounds like their version of face book or something which I don't care for or use.
I'd like to see the pictures though if you figure out how others can view them.
Hi Mark, It's odd, your first set of photos (from Jun 24, 2012->Mar 21, 2014) do not prompt for a login to google. But these newer links do.
You can test by opening your link in an 'incognito', 'inPrivate' or 'private' browser window...this strips out the possibility you might be signed into your own account.
But it is curious; I too can see that your newer albums are 'shared publicly'. I'm not sure why the newer links prompt for login.
But check this out...if you make the URL resemble that of your original album, I believe that'll load without requiring a google login. (https://plus.google.com/photos/<your_google_uid_number>/albums/<album_uid_number>)
Still no brakes in the truck but I could no longer resist the temptation to drive it. I did a couple laps between the shop and the front yard to warm it up so I can find any remaining bugs. My eldest son filmed as I raced around on the final lap. You can see the rear tires break loose as I hit 3rd gear coming past him.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. Stack(s) are something I've consindered for a long time and started buying some parts many years ago but never did it. I may revisit that idea with this new engine though.
I'm hoping to get the brakes working this week so I can make a "ride along" video next. I'm a little nervous about how well the new brake setup is going to work since its un-tried or tested. I'm using the hydroboost and master cylinder for a 1997 F Super Duty and adding 10 pound residual valves to both lines (front and rear). In theory it should work fine, so I'll let you know after it's all bled out.
Mark, I am enjoying your thread and your project. Thanks for taking the time to document it with the pictures and videos too. Nice work for sure.
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 GMC 450 FlatbedW/W, Air Brake equipt (25% Owner) | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
Man,This truck is really something to be proud of! You really took some time to figure this thing out,and the results speak for themselves! Are you using the stock 2-speed rear? Where did you find the 6-bolt tubeless rims? This engine is really an I.H.C.,for those that shudder at installing a "ferd" in a Chevy. I watched all of your "Youtube" video's,and I'm just amazed at the ideas/solutions you came up with. what kind of brake set-up are you installing? Inquiring minds want to know! Hats off,to a JOB,MORE than Well-Done!! Thanks,again,for sharing!!
Thanks guys. I'm enjoying sharing as much as I am doing the project. I hope the information I've been able to publish can assist someone else that's contempating a modern drivetrain swap into these old beauties. I'm planning two more videos, first will be a short "show and tell" of what the engine compartment looks like after the job is done and second will be a "ride along" around scenic Leesburg Virginia.
I do have the original 2 speed rear axle still and during my test drive the other day I noticed 1st gear was like a "granny low". When the drivetrain was in the F250, 1st gear "pulled" and now it just "moves" the truck into motion. I'm going to try starting out in 2nd on my next test runs and see how that feels.
The wheels are Accuride 28157 that I bought new and had re-powdercoated black and silver. Tires are all Goodyear 10R22.5 radials that "magically" transformed the way the truck drives down the road. I drove the truck for five years on the nylon bias tube tires and was speechless at the difference the new tires made.
Correct on the engine being and International and not a Ford. The transmission is also not Ford, its a ZF that went into other makes as well. Most guys go with an early Cummins engine for their swaps for a couple reasons, with the main one being no electronics involved. Second, there's several businesses that specialize in adapters and "bolt in" kits for swapping the Cummins. I personally like the sound of the V8 Powerstroke over the Cummins inline 6 which was my main reason for choosing it. Plus not many people have a Powerstroke swapped truck, but everyone has a Cummins swap (boring).
I'll let you know how the brakes turn out after this weekend. I'm using the hydraulic booster and master cylinder for a 97 Ford Super Duty (F450) since it "plugs and plays" with the power steering pump on the engine. The bore of the master is 1 5/16" which is a little bigger than the original. I'm adding inline 10 pound residual pressure valves since the master has none. It's total guess work on my part but I've got to start somewhere.
I'm thinking that the newer 1-1/2-tons have about the same G.V.W.'s,as our T.F./Blue-Chip 2-Tonners. With this in mind,your brakes should out-perform the origional M.C./hydrovac,as well as the safety net of a dual reservoir. The added residual pressure valves just adds to your thoughtful insight,and really "Doing it right the first time"! Again,Congrats on a JOB VERY WELL-DONE!! Thanks for answering my questions!!
The brakes are now operational! The pedal isn’t as high as I wanted it to be but the feel and function is perfect. On a test run down the road I was able to easily lock up the rear tires. The 10 pound valves work great, the pedal response is consistent each time the brakes are applied. Overall the brakes are smooth, not sudden/jerky or slow in response; I’m very pleased with the outcome.
Also: the power and acceleration is INSANE! It’s a completely different truck and a total adrenaline rush. The amazing part is, I don’t have the Swamps IDM or the TS chip installed yet…. Holy smokes, not sure I can handle it!
Here are a couple personal notes to anyone who’s doing all new brake lines into a truck (these are seen in the pictures marked with red arrows or circled). These tips (I consider them requirements) will eliminate pre-mature failure of the brake lines at the fittings. I mention these only because I see alot of guys neglect these steps.
1. Tie the lines at the back of the master cylinder to some sort of bracket. This prevents the lines from moving at the fittings when the body and frame flex in different angles from each other. 2. Make a small coil of brake line shortly after the master cylinder. This acts like a spring to absorb the flex of the body and frame. The coils need to be on both front and rear lines. 3. Make a bracket to hold the lines to the frame, close to the fitting. Again, this prevents the line from flexing at the fitting.
Went out on the maiden voyage today and swung by the bulk mulch yard so I could get on the scale while the dump bed is still off the truck. It weighed in at 7800 pounds which surprised me because it weighed 9000 pounds with the bed. I thought the bed weighed closer to 2500 pounds, so surprised to learn it only weighs around 1200 to 1500 pounds. I’ll get back on the scale after the bed is back on to confirm the actual weight.
The brakes are great and the truck cruises effortlessly in any gear. I went up a long, reasonably steep grade in 5th (overdrive) and accelerated the whole way up, never had to down shift.
Next on the “to do” list is to close up the hole around the shifter boot. The noise coming in got a little unbearable by the time I got home. I’ll need to fab up a piece of sheet metal to close in around the top of the transmission so the shifter boot can be screwed back down.
I closed the hole around the shifter this weekend. Cut a 12” x 8” piece of 16 gauge and used what I had to “form it” to fit. I had to raise a circular area around the shifter hole for clearance with the top of the transmission which was a little tricky. While I was working the sheet I remembered a small shifter boot I bought 10 years ago and thought it might fit as a “sub boot” under the actual shifter boot. I dug it out and sure enough it’s the perfect size. This quieted the noise level tremendously and will look really good when the floor covering goes back in.
Great job Mark!! You are truly, a talented Craftsman. Think about a road trip to KC next September for the reunion. You and your family will have a great time, and the quality of your work will draw a lot of attention. Just ask Peggy.
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery '46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Here's some progress pictures of the interior after getting the Dynaliner down and the back wall covered. Along with the large 24" x 70" hard board I also cut and shaped 2 pieces of 16ga to cover the rear corners. I covered the 16ga in the same cloth as the hard board.
I also found a piece of large square foam (grey) that I cut in two and glued it to the hard board inside the corners. Now the corners are "full" and shouldn't have any echo or acoustics emminate from them.
As part of this process I removed the fuel tank from inside the cab since I have never used it (I use the frame mount tank only). I think the tank was also a source of resinating noise (hollow can). I want to keep the filler spout on the outside of the cab (it adds character) so I cut it where it connects to the tank and welded a plate with a nut inside to the end of it. I cut it where it meets the 16ga and drilled a hole for a 1/4" bolt to hold the spout firmly.
Hopefully the pictures will help explain more of what I'm describing.
Here's a first ride along video around Western Loudoun County VA. You may hear me groan a couple times becasue I'm getting the infamous ZF5 roll over growl, mostly at low speeds and it's driving me nuts (pun intended). Note the white car that's pulling out on my left at the 4 minute mark. He come up behind me as we enter the main route and has no intentions of being stuck behind a slow dump truck.
That was my first time taking it off the "back roads" and up to speed on the main routes. I was amazed by the accelleration, I didn't expect that. When I fist looked at the GPS it showed 78 MPH. That's when I started to feel a little shake in the front end so I backed off to 75 and "speed racer" pulled away. I guess having a dump truck that can keep pace with a sports car is the point where I can claim success.
My next task is to find a Mitchell overdrive unit to put in place of the carrier bearing to bring the RPMs down to a comfortable level for a diesel. Albeit, I'll lose some of that sports car feel, but right now I start out in 2nd becasue 1st is too low.
