The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Steering colum Hydroboost and brake pedal assembly...Tips?

I'm mounting a 1953 cab and nose on a 2006 Chevy 3500 chassis.I will be running a 6.0 LS engine and auto transmission.I will be running hydroboost brakes and a pedal asembly for an auto transmission(brake and accelerator only).

I also want to run a simplified modern steering column with column shifter,I would prefer non locking with key in dash.I don't need tilt,necessarily.I would prefer to mount a steering wheel that has a vintage look,not a padded modern type.This is a complete fabrication of a work truck for daily use.

I ask these questions because of the fabrication that will take place in the same proximity of the firewall and interior.I was thinking a 70s Chevy Van style column.Should I go with the pedal assembly that went along with the hydroboost?Yep,I understand the welding and fabrication necessary.Anyone have to deal with these needs?

can't say how it works yet but we welded on a 70's truck firewall plate and pedal asm inside. the streering column clamp is on the plate. with a 2006 hydro boost, fabed our own bracket to mount the rod to pedal pivot point.

70s truck firewall mounting plate

the plate

DogsBurb,I have been through your albums a few times briefly,and I know that your project is going to help me tremendously,because we are both putting old bodies on modern chassis.I'm a little busy at the moment to get into the subject more,but those photos are a great help.

What is the patching you needed to do on the Burbs firewall?

Patch area, we took those ribs off to weld the plate flat against the wall.
I dig that picture:
patching

DogsBurb,great and helpful photos.Hope you don't mind if I just blurt out some questions as they come to mind.

Are you going to run an automatic?Are you just going to eliminate what looks to be a clutch pedal?

What is the steering column you are going to run?

The firewall mounting plate you used was from a 70s chevy truck,was that pre-1973 or after?

How tight is the hydroboost to the engine? Is there anything so tight that will effect engine servicing?

Thanks for the help,hope you don't mind if I hit you up with similar questions.

I have an Auto 400/205, that is the E-Brake pedal.
our column is out of an 89 suburban, it is "a padded modern type" but I like what your thinking.
plates are 73&Up, My 77 has it.

enough room?

Tight here

We placed the engine back as far as we could get it.

"Engine servicing?" I like the way my Son said it: "these new-school engines from GM are so bitchin, you can weld the hood closed."

no problem, hope it helps, that's what this site is all about. It may share some of the info we didn't think of. You might also search for a pedal kit for some of the pieces.

Hey DogsBurb,what is your reason for pushing the engine back to the very last 1/4 inch,was it essential for fan and radiator clearance?Could you gain more by notching a pocket in the firewall where the valve cover wants to hit?

Do you know if the cab and firewall dimensions are the same as the truck cab and engine compartment?

Thanks again.

yep, eyeballing fan clearance at the radiator without the frontend on the truck. new frame stock motor mounting location wouldn't work. our cross member engine mount is moved back from the stock location about 5.5 inches. we'll be hitting the firewall(BFH) or cut to clearance what hits.
that's how we have clearance here

yes, the truck vs suburban, frontends are the same. stock frame too.

DogsBurb,that is some nice work on that motor mount.I had looked at those photos before and had wondered why you spend so much time on it,but cross member is the only way to go.Looks like you have a nice way to drop it out of the way for an oil pan gasket or whatever.And thank you for that 5 1/2" number.Now is that number strictly because of a smaller firewall to front spindle dimension on the '51 burb vs.the '74 truck?I am going to have to look at my 2006 chassis to see what is involved in sliding that back for that much,although in my situation it will probably be moving the cab forward,tight to the engine than vice versa,because I don't have any dimension behind my cab to worry about as opposed to a suburban needing the wheelbase to be on the money.

You have a good looking radiator there.That is one thing I will be starting from scratch with.

Good, sounds like your thinking about which way your going to go and what you'll need to look for.

We picked the rear end to line up, making that 5.5 no magic number. My Son had the motor in and out for 3 months every night, scratching his head. Then he made that cross member. If you like that one, check the rear mount he made for his truck: rear crossmember, installed

we lucked out with our trans rear mount in the suburban it's out of a stock 92' Truck.

Dog,again,very nice work.It looks like we are dealing with similar skill levels,which is pretty cool,and really helps with the advice I am receiving,and any you may be able to offer.

I had to laugh a bit about the 5.5 number when you mentioned it,because we are both working from opposite ends of our trucks.I don't have to reference the rear of my truck at this point because from the cab rearward,my body is going to be a service/utility body with tool boxes,that will be a fabrication.My 2006 chassis is also an extended cab,which was picked because of the extra 2-3 feet or so I will behind the '53 cab to transition from a stock modern service body to the much narrower cab on the '53.

My chassis is a 3500 series with 2WD and A-frame suspension,so my front spindle centerline is what I am tied to.Looks like your's is a 4WD,are you custom locating your front differential spring perches to center the wheel in the fender?I guess at some point I may have to ask you for a measurement or dimension of something in the front but I have a case of brain freeze right now,lol.

The other factor I have to consider is cab mounting height.Is your cab sitting at stock height of the '74 chassis?How is it clearing the transmission? My cab '53 is in very good condition,except for the floor,which I will remove and replace.I am wondering if I should build in some hump in the floor.I want my cab to sit at a low(stock) height.Of couse,I need to verify everything on my own chassis,however,the chassis I will use is on a running truck,used daily.The 2006 chassis humps up immediately behind the cab.

our front Dana60 spring perches bolted right up. basically the reason why our 74 frame swap. width is a big issue centering the wheels in the fenders, we're lifted and stick out.

that hump your going to have to deal with on your height at the floor.
the frame humps up after the cab
our suburban just stayed above it and cleared at the tranny hump.

you can think about doing something like this [pic]; before you do your floor if needed.
box the floor later
but know when to stop, when good enough is enough.
I know Greg <when you have some time, you might take a look thru his build thread and maybe learn from one of my friends; when is "enough"? At least take away, that life goes on and the Garage project is just a project. be flexible, adapt to the changes and don't be held to a due date.

Dogs Burb,thanks.I see that you have new cab mounts on your chassis,so I guess you gave it some body lift in that process,and I see that you have a decent amount of suspension lift.Yes,I am aware of the chassis width issue,if you look around the site here you might find some threads I posted asking how I need to deal with it.I will probably end up sectioning the front fenders and welding in a filler strip and doing metal and bodywork,as I want my tires to sit inside the fenders and have a more production look.

Others on the site here have told me I should have enough floor and transmission clearance,that it is not a worry,I would prefer not to lift the cab off the chassis,or new mounts after the fact,to get the transmission clearance.I will fab a new cab mount to the underside of the cab itself to do away with the old cab mounting method,so I can use modern cab bushings and get some cushioning.

My chassis hump will occur well behind the '53 cab because of the extended cab chassis that I am using,so no issue there.

Does anyone know if this is correct or not:
47-55Front Fenders: might have read it here years ago; that the front fenders off of a 1.5ton Truck are wider and fit the same as the 1/2 ton fenders (with 1/2ton coresupport & grill).<but I don't know for sure, might ask for some help in big bolts to get the right answer.

I think I can help with that because I have asked the same question 16 different ways on this forum.

The short answer is NO.

1/2 ton through 1 ton,including Burbs,have the same hood/fenders/grille.1 1/2 ton and up have different hood/fenders/grille(?) to accommodate a larger diameter tire,and yes the fenders are wider and the fender wheel opening is larger.

Some GMC Big Bolts have wider fenders,I believe 4400 series and up,and use the same Big Bolt hood,and associated items.

My truck is a 2 ton Big Bolt cab and fenders.I never saw the chassis or running gear.The cab and nose are off a '53 GMC fire truck.I have no idea how or why the cab and nose were separated from the truck.That is how I purchased it,from someone in the same town as the fire department it was originally from.

I was thinking about putting this cab on a '90 chevy 3500 chassis,originally,but even it being a Big Bolt,it still would need fenders about 2 inches wider.Big Bolts don't look right unless the tires are about 36 inches in diameter or so.

I don't know of anyone making wider fenders,if you did find them,they would probably be fiberglass.

well heck, check the way this guy did it,
wider 47 chevy truck

Great idea.But why stop there?I'll just tow home a farm truck and put together a crew cab while I'm at it.