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| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | I searched for this subject, in the forum, and came up blank. I have a '61 235 in my '53 3100. There is a copper oil line running, from the same fitting that the oil gauge line runs from, around the back of the engine and into a fitting in the head. When I disconnect the line, from the fitting, and turn the engine over the oil shoots out full. But when I disconnect the other end from the head, it doesn't flow nearly as strong. My oil gauge will show 16 psi oil pressure, then drop to zero. Shouldn't I have aprox 45 psi? What I need to know is... What is this line for? And... where can I buy a new copper line. It appears to be 1/4" copper. The oil gauge is new, so I am thinking dirt in the copper lines. Thanks for the help in advance.
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | You might have the full flow filter system. I would take the line off and see if I could clear it. An old speedo inner cable works good for this sort of plugged oil line. Chuck it in your drill and "roto rooter" that line. If it won't clear you have a pattern to make a new one. Easy to bend and simple flares.
Steve H
| | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,320 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,320 | There was not an external line on a 235 originally. They are added when the original path for the oil going to the rockers gets plugged. I would plug both spots where the line connects and watch the rockers to see if they get oil without the line.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | Thanks for the great advice! Definitely gives me a place to start. My fellow stovebolters never let me down!
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | Those external oilers are usually made from 1/8" OD tubing, the same size as the line going to the dash gauge. The inside diameter of the tube is only about 1/16", and it gets clogged easily. The tubing is available at most FLAPS in lengths sufficient to go from the engine to the dash, with an assortment of fittings. I'd suggest replacing both lines, the one from the engine to the dash gauge, and the one to the head, if it's necessary to get oil to the rocker arms. It's not uncommon for the internal oil passages to get plugged up on an old, high-mileage engine. Jerry
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| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | Thank you Tim! I checked eBay, and found several NOS oiler kits, priced as low as $10.00 and as high as $29.00.
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | Well, today I installed the new (NOS) oiler line and fittings. It was easy to install and works great.  Also installed a new 60 lb oil pressure gauge, with a new copper line and fittings. And this is where my dilemma begins...  The original compression fitting, at the gauge, had a small leak. I was always cleaning oil off the floor mat, at the accelerator pedal (where it always seemed to end up dripping at). I replaced the fitting, compression sleeve, and nut and it still leaked. Now with the new gauge, copper line, and fittings... I still have a leak at the gauge compression fitting. I have no leaks anywhere else. I even pulled the copper line out and reversed it, installing the gauge end onto the engine fitting and the engine end onto the gauge. It does not leak at the engine end, but it still leaks at the gauge. Any suggestions?
Last edited by PaPa Joe; 05/21/2014 1:13 AM.
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,189 | Sounds like you have a crack or pin hole at the gauge fitting or gauge... Connect your new line to an old gauge (without mounting it) and see if it leaks. Mike B  | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | Yes, the old gauge leaks also. It leaked with the old line and fittings, and leaks with the new ones as well. It seems to be leaking at the gauge. I don't want to tighten it too tight. Maybe it isn't seating properly? 
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | If you take a really good look at the gauge fitting you might find some pitting or something. Then again, is it leaking from another place within the gauge? I guess you could put some plumbers putty or RTV on the threads. I am not advising anything because I am not sure how pressure plays into these quick fixes. Maybe its a good time to remove the entire gauge and take a closer look? | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | I don't know how "Teflon" thread tape holds up to oil and oil pressure, but applying that to the fitting threads that thread into the gauge seems to have stopped the leak. I let it run awhile... hot oil at full pressure... no leaks, so far. I'll let you know if anything changes.
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
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