The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Stuck Kingpin Bushing Removal

Originally sent this out as a note to Grigg, but others might have some creative thoughts, so here goes:

Been working for most of the day, trying to get one of the bushings in my spindle to come free. I have mangled it pretty good by now:

Bushing

I've tried heat, BFH, SFH, a 20-ton press, heat while IN the 20-ton press, and a variety of tools that are smaller than the bore but about the same size as the bushing. Even destroyed the three other bushings (all were rusty, but all eventually came out) while using them to try to press out the one stuck one. I know it has to go inward, toward the spindle.

I am out of ideas.

Any thoughts? Feel like I am going to destroy the bore if I keep at it this way. Should I try to collapse the bushing by using a punch through the zerk hole?

NOTHING about kingpin work has been easy for me. Seems like everything I have done that involves this part of the rebuild has been a massive pain in the backside. If I had the option of a decent machine shop nearby, I'd be all over it. None of the mechanics around here even know of one. What is the world coming to?

Thanks,

Jim

Hy Fourbrads, the bushing can come out in either direction, it will be installed from the top of the spindle. You could take a hacksaw blade and cut through the bushing, if you cut it inline with the grease fitting hole then you could use a punch through the hole to collapse the bushing inward. Possibly someone used a chemical locking substance to hold the bushing in a worn spindle bore, good luck, and please keep us informed.

Maybe This thread will help

Thanks, CASO, but no...

My problem is the well-and-truly glued bushing in the spindle. Whatever method the PO used to put it there, I'd love to repeat. The bushing isn't going anywhere!

I like the idea of the hacksaw blade cutting near the zerk hole to collapse the bushing, but worry that I'll damage the bore.

I guess that at this point, there's not much more to be done though. Any other thoughts?

Jim

Maybe he used JB Weld...
Yeah I'd cut it and use a punch at that point too.
Maybe run a hone through it if it really was 'glued'.

If it WAS glued it would qualify for the 'Thing the PO did' thread up in the General threads.

Amen to that Brother!

Will let you know what I find...

Jim

The hack saw blade works well. If you cut too deep and put a vertical scratch or groove in the casting, it really doesn't matter. Unless it goes right through the grease hole, it won't cause any problem.

I know what my older blacksmith friend would do. He would get out the acet torch and blow it out. I am not skilled enough to know how much heat, but he has that all figured out.

If you use a bushing driver the size of the bore, a 20 ton press should move it. If it actually puts out 20 tons, thats a lot. I have bent camber into trailer axles that were 5" round, 5/8" wall thickness and they yielded at 38 tons. Thats the most I have ever seen on the gauge on my 100 ton press. Just make sure you set up correctly when you press and have some kind of guard between you and the driver. I have seen guys use something like a bolt to press with and have it shoot out and go through 22 gauge corrugated sheet metal.

I would consider a torch, but unless you have used a torch a lot, I wouldn't recommend it. I wouldn't poke around in the grease fitting too much for fears of messing up the threads. If you have a drift pin punch that has no taper, it should be ok. A sawzall would probably be the simplest. If you get into the knuckle itself a little, its not going to hurt. It kind of looks like the bore may mushroomed from beating on it. I would try from the other side.

If it were mine, I would measure a new bushing and get a bushing driver just a little smaller and push it out. If you have a caliper, you can measure a new bushing and measure the bore where you have beating on it. If it is mushroomed, you are going to have to ream it out anyway to get a new bushing in it.

If you think it was held in place with loctite or something like that it wouldn't hurt to use your propane torch inside the bushing to get it quite warm and break the glue bond.

Grigg

Thanks guys. Consensus seems to be to cut the bushing with a hacksaw and drift it to collapse through the zerk hole.

I'll give that a go this weekend and report back.

Your replies are much appreciated.

Jim

I never saw a king pin bushing glued, when I run across one I cant get out. I mount the spindle level in my vise, take the open handled hack saw blade, make a slow deliberate level cut, stopping to check more than needed so you don't gouge the bore. I take a small screwdriver that I an willing to sacrifice and drive it under an edge. if it doesn't give I make another cut in the bushing 180 from the other.
being glued you got lots of choices on what might help. I always try jB blaster soak and let sit overnight. Acetone the paint hardware store has it, might dissolve it. Next the propane torch, just make sure you washed off the liquids. Some of them when heated give off vapors that can cause you severe medical problems.
Remember Some king pin bushings like on my 1/2 ton are floaters they can be installed by putting the pin in the bushing and lightly tapping them in. Others like my one ton have to be pressed in and a special reamer used to resize them. Hope this helps.
If the spindle is nice and clean you could bake the spindle in the oven. 300 degree will most likely cook the glue to the point where it breaks down. Hope this helps good luck.

I've seen them installed with loctite and it makes it a headache to get them out. As mentioned use a hacksaw blade to split them and then a small chisel to get the pieces out.

I would advise that you use the smallest chisel you have to collapse the bushing after you cut it. Don't put a punch into the zerk hole. It may cause damage to the threads in there. A cut or two and the bushing will collapse with less risk of damage to the spindle. Take your time and follow the tips and you will get it fixed. Any small gouges can be smoothed with a brake hone and a little time.

Live alone do you, GPS? At my house I stay out of the kitchen (at least while she's home) and the Mrs. stays out of the garage (except she does go in the garage quite a lot). Well, never mind.
Carl

Carl,

A good gas BBQ grill with a thermometer make for domestic tranquility in MY kitchen and in our house (even though I have a very powerful outside-vented exhaust fan over the oven).

Good Gracious! What a pain!

After another four hours of fussing, it's finally out. Thanks to all for the tips. Yes, I used PB Blaster, KROIL, heat, a driver of the correct size, and a few choice words and none of that worked.

Cut a kerf in the bushing on the bench...Used a punch smaller than the zerk hole and tried to collapse it, but the dang thing was stuck so hard to the walls of the bore that the punch just cut right through the bushing without collapsing it.

Great.

So, went at it with a set of punches, chisels, and scewdrivers until it finally started to show the slightest hint that it was starting to budge. Pieces of it came off as I worked on it. Hit it with the driver again and it came out (not easily, mind you). The offending bushing.

So now I have a bore with a scar in it. Let me rephrase; I have a custom grease channel in my race-modified spindle...

I spent $50 getting this spindle shipped to me from Texas because the one that was on the axle had buggered threads. I was NOT going to give up.

I've polished up the bore a bit and it doesn't look too bad. I'll probably give it a light going-over with a hone before starting to put in the new bushings.

I believe that the culprit here was locktite, combined with a liberal locking coat of rust. The thing just WOULD NOT BUDGE.


Thanks again for all the tips and tricks.

Jim

congrats, Jim. We knew you'd get it. Give yourself a pat on the back and got get some hot dogs and an a cold Pepsi! Glad its over for you.

Before you clean up your custom re-engineered race-ready spindle bore, test fit a new bushing in the bore before you take off any metal. If the PO used Loc-tite, you may already have an enlarged hole.

Thanks Alvin and Carl,

Had the Pepsi already, but have a feeling it's not over yet!

And I did test-fit (only a short way) the new bushing, and it seems tight. Might act different with lube on it and I'll watch this as I go. I also mic'd my old and new kingpins and they are the same diameter. So, at least I have THAT going for me.

On to finding the right grease zerks, finishing up the kingpin job, and cobbling together the rest of the parts for a poor-man's 6-lug front disc conversion. Got a master cylinder from Mike B at Homecoming, so I am most of the way there (I hope).

Best,

Jim