The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235, 62 1/2 Ton, Pulling oil Pan?

OK, I think I may have slipped the timing chain or gears (whatever is in there). In Chevie's infinite wisdom, it appers that I have to pull the pan to remove the timing cover.

unfortunately, my Grandpas old truck is covered in chicken chit. To the point that I can't really see what I'm up against.

1. What is the easiest way to inspect the timing chain/gears? Is the motor mount an issue?

2. Is this a common failure for the 235s of this era (1962, 94k miles)?

Background: It was purring like a kitten, then I killed it at a stop sign engaging 1st gear with the clutch. It's never been right since. I've replaced all of the ignition, and put the dizzy in every gear on the cam. The dizzy spins with the engine. But, it only backfires. fuel pump working, carb rebuilt just before it quit, and it was running good.

Unfortunately you do have to drop the pan to remove the timing cover. There are two bolts that go through the front main cap, into the cover. And I thought only Ford had better ideas. :confused: Anyway, the motor mount isn't an issue with removing the timing cover. Those screws holding the cover on may be a booger to get without ruining them. Some of the 235's (only cars, as far as I know, but I could be wrong) had fiber timing gears. They would give no warning when they failed. The trucks had aluminum gears that shouldn't give troubles but could. To me, it definately sounds like a timing problem. Let us know what you find out.

Yes, it's fairly common for a timing gear to fail, but the cam usually quits turning when it does. A couple of teeth will strip on the fiber gear, and the crankshaft turns, but not the cam. Here's a quick way to check the cam timing:

Remove the valve cover, and pull the spark plugs. Watch the #6 cylinder valves. Turn the engine with the fan until the exhaust valve starts closing. Keep turning the engine over until the #6 intake valve starts to open. The #6 piston should be at top dead center on the exhaust stroke, and the #1 cylinder will be on TDC on compression, with the distributor pointed to the #1 plug wire, and the points just barely open. Any other relationship between the valves and pistons indicates a jumped/stripped timing system, either chain or gears. This works on all engines with an even number of cylinders, just use the cylinder halfway down the firing order from #1.

Inline 6: 1 5 3 6 2 4, companion cylinders that come to the top together are 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4.

V-8: 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2, companion cylinders are 1&6, 8&5, 4&7, and 3&2. Works every time!
Jerry

thanks for the input! The weather is not cooperating at this point. So I'll be working on my other dead truck (69 Ferd f250), that's in my shop.

Right now, I've got 2 trucks and nothing to haul stuff with :-(

If you do end up pulling the cover and pan. The fix is to tap the holes in the bearing cap so those two bolts can be removed from the front without pulling the pan.

The engine needs to be jacked to remove the pan. Place a jack under the balancer (with a block of wood) and remove the bolts through the motor mount.

Fred-What truck is your 235 in? I've had the pan off several times over the years, and never had to jack the engine up. I let it drop at the back, then work the front out.

Tim, I will stand corrected. Got so used to working on the later models with the 250 that I didn't think before I posted.
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