The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Hoisting rear frame to move rear end? Ideas?

Hey Fellas
Read these post and cant thank each of u enough for ur wisdom and kindness.

I started out with a 216 motor fenders etc. from a guy building a drag truck and found a project pickup kinda rough 5 bent push rods. So I jerked the motor out set in the other motor.

Project truck was missing manual tranny and rear axle unbolted moved back.

My question. I wanna lift the rear frame to move /align my motor/tranny combo. slide rear axle to home position. Without the whole mess falling on me.

I got a A Frame and considered supports to rear frame to raise enough to take wait off rear axle. Anything else I can try or am missing?

Here is what I did with minimal expense. Get enough standard 8x8x16 cinder blocks to dry stack four 16x16 piers on each corner of the truck. Jack up the truck, set your piers under the frame rails, and then place a stout 4x4 or 4x6 perpandicular to the frame and set the timbers on the cinder block piers. Make sure the truck is level as any slope will compromise stability. After the truck is set on its piers but with the wheels still attached, push the truck by hand laterally to make sure it is stable. Once you have determined that your dry stack is stable, proceed with the reat of the work. I spent many quality hours under my 8000 pound truck using the described method. Good luck, and don't make any shortcuts as people are killed with vehicles crushing them. We all want to see your beaming smile in front of your finished project, not read your obituary.

Working on suspension and drive train stuff takes some planning. You must have a safe and stable platform. The alternative is too ugly to even think about. I had a station wagon fall while I was under it. I was just lucky. That is all there is about it. 1/2 inch to the right or the left and I would be gone. I had plenty of time to think about it while my friend was lifting that car in a dead panic. Jack stands and a good jack are the best money you can spend. With a flat concrete floor you can use a stack-able system as posted above. What ever you use remember that big heavy and awkward stuff will be moving around under there with you. And when you do put a wrench on that stuff the truck must stay put, even with a 4 foot cheater on that handle. Stay safe and enjoy the work.

Lifting the frame (or vehicle) can be done by anything that can safely handle the weight.

The important part is solidly supporting it once it is at the right height.

Block the wheels good on the end not lifted.

If both ends will be off the ground at once requires a lot of care if you are jacking each end separately. If you block 1 end then jack up the other, there is almost always lateral pressure exerted on the blocks. Things can fall over if you're not careful.

Cement blocks, good jack stands, I've often used log sections. When the frame is at the right height, measure it and go out to the wood pile and slice 2 pieces off a 12" log and you got great support. Hint; the taller the pieces, the bigger the diameter for better support.

I would caution against using cement blocks. They have been known to crumble.

Yeah I had always heard cement blocks were a no-no to use.....

John

I currently have a 53 foot road trailer supported by concrete block piers while I remove the subframe that carries the dual axles and the landing gear. It's a perfectly safe method of supporting heavy weights - - -IF- - - - -and this is a big one- - - -the blocks are stacked the same way they would be used to build a building. Never- - - -ever- - - -put any weight on the web section of a concrete block! I put four blocks side by side into a square arrangement, then stack another layer on top with the arrangement of blocks turned 90 degrees, etc., until I get the height I desire, then use 2X12 lumber to spread out the load over the entire top surface. A pair of square piers like this on each side of the frame with a 6X6 timber between them will support several tons of weight safely. Just be sure you don't build the support piers on soft or muddy ground. A stack of cross-hatched railroad ties is another very safe way to support heavy loads- - - - -I've worked on bulldozers with the tracks removed very safely by supporting the equipment with timbers.
Jerry

Safety first. All good reply's. The idea for the wood to spread weight is good. The pillar is good. The most important thing is stability! Never let weight sit at a point on masonry. That will fail. Be safe and live to enjoy what you are doing.

I still wouldn't use concrete/cinder/hadite blocks, I don't care who has used them before.

My vote is for Jack Stands.

Thanks for the replies and the concern for my safety. I had to put my project on hold: We had a nasty tornado that wiped out 3 areas. Mayflower vilonia and elpaso. My good friend was oblivious to the fact he was in the tornados path until a phone call let him know. He barely made it to his bathtub closet. Nothing remains of his home or car. A higher power is the only explaination for his walking out. Other nearby homes where leveled even with the ground. Im not trying to be preachy im just thankful for you guys help and concern. Puts a new meaning to perspective

In 1982, I learned from my younger brother,
NEVER to use cinder blocks.

He had one crumble and that was the
last vehicle he ever worked on.

For me... it's Jack Stands plus the Jack.

Having hauled more brick and block than I care to think about what Jerry says is correct. I've seen block used wrong and cringe everytime I see it. That being said don't take the chance, use Jack stands, they're to cheap to buy and with the way block companies make block, to cheap on the cement, they're not what I would put my life on.Larry

I'm about 10 miles from El Paso/Vilonia area-the devastation is incredible there.