The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts need some help with engine and brake issues

first a little background info. A friend of mine bought a 52 chevy 1.5 or 2 ton(not sure which as the vin was missing) a few years ago. we have since had it titled put kits in the rear wheel cylinders and new front wheel cylinders, and new master cylinder. The brakes have been bled and adjusted to were the shoes have a very slight drag. newly lined shoes and new rubber brake hoses installed. The problem in the pedal goes almost to the floor the first time it is pressed and only half a pedal after that. I cannot imagine what else could be the problem. Secondly the original engine would run but was wore slap out so we installed a full pressure 235 from another project. The 235 manifolds were toast so we installed the intake and exhaust from the original motor. The motor runs smooth as can be has good compession, does not burn oil or smoke. The problem is it is very sllllloooooowwwwwww. It takes a while for it to get to speed and is very slow to rev up. I have a 51 Ford f6 two ton that will literally run circles around this truck. What gives? Could the carb be too small? We installed the stepped sleeves to adapt the manifolds, checked timing, fuel pump is new, and new fuel lines. I am outta ideas

It would probably help to have the 235 intake manifold and carb.
Did you do anything with the hydrovac? It needs to be part of the bleeding process.

When I replaced the vacuum advance I inspected the distributor for wear but I could have missed something. Also I am not sure if the truck originally came with a hydra-vac unit but it did not have one at the time of purchase so we did not install one. I will try retracting the rear shoes all the way in and then bleeding them. I am willing to try anything at this point. I will also try and locate the proper intake carb and exhaust manifolds and recheck the distributor.

If its a 1 1/2 or 2 ton is should have a hydrovac. You have any pictures of your truck?

If you can pump the brakes up with the pedal, then you still have air in the system.
I don't know if a 52 2ton came with a hydrovac. Mine is a 57 2ton GMC. Had to buy a new hydrovac. It has 2 bleeders on it. Also mine has 2 wheel cylinders per wheel, that have to be bled.
Did you bench bleed the master cyl.?

You say you adjusted the brakes to a "slight drag". You can get some drag even when the adjustment are way off. Especially with new linings. Adjust them till you get a heavy drag & then back it off about 4 notches. You will get some rubeing but it will go away when they get seated.
If your rear cyls. are mounted at an angle it is hard to get all the air out of them.

A 51 Ford would have a flat head which is a lot quieter than a Chev with OH valves. You may just not be revving your Chev enough to gt the most out of it. However, in those days, a Ford with its V8 would out run a Chev, but a Chev would out pull a Ford on a hard hill.

I don't have any pics but it has 20" wheels, two wheel cylinders per side on the rear single speed axle and the front dust covers are bolted on. I know on the fords offered power brakes and two speed rears as an option on the 1.5 and 2 tons. Chevys I am not real sure about. The acceleration of the engine is just slow even when floored it takes a while to wind out even in second. But once at speed it will pull a 20ft gooseneck with a john deere A on it and pull small grades without slowing down. It just takes forever to get to 45 or 50mph. It's running about three foot of 2" pipe from the manifold going into a 3" tail pipe about 4' long and it sounds strong and amazing I might add. The exhaust manifold is Turing white, does that indicate a problem. The plugs are the proper color with no unusual deposits. I suspected air still in the lines but I have ran two big bottles of fluid through them. I made a fitting and bench bled the master cylinder. I might try using a vacuum gun. How much free travel should the brake have before the pedal firms up?

Sounds like it's running lean. It would also help if you put smaller diameter exhaust pipe along with a muffler. I would also put a 235 intake and carb on if your going to be working it.

I will try and locate the correct manifolds as well as remove the distributor and check run out on the shaft, vacuum bleed the brake system and tighten the adjustment if bleeding does not work. Thanks for all the input.

Billy W's got the same problem with his '59 Viking 60 bus.. He's not getting enough pressure to his rear brakes,and the 261 sounds good,and doesn't smoke. It has hardly any power. We fixed a couple of vacuum leaks,(carb base,vent tube at manifold),but the problem persists. Brakes require 15-18 lbs.,and we gauged his 261 at between 7-8 P.S.I. Next thing will be a compression check. I suspect the valves are carboned-up,so we're going to get the engine up to operating temp,and pour water through the carb,while throttle is set at a high idle. Same result as using trans.fluid,without the smoke,and it's a lot cheaper. I HOPE this works! We may have to have the valves ground,at which time,install hardened seats,to accomodate today's un-leaded fuel. I did this to my truck,and it runs like new!