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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 22 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 22 | Aside from the obvious need to Relocate/ fabricate motor mounts, what else needs to be done to install a 250 in a 1950 3/4 ton truck? I plan to update running gear all the way though new trans, drive shaft, and rear end. Someone once told me that I would need to move the radiator forward for the engine to fit. Is that true? If so how difficult is that? I don't want to use an electric fan. Or is the 250 a poor choice in general for some reason?
| | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | I've never done this swap but I saw one just this week. Looked good, the guy was running a TH350 trans. I do believe the radiator has to be moved forward but I would leave the radiator support right where it is as all the front sheet metal attaches to it. I would think the radiator could simply be moved out in front of the support and spaced forward as needed.
Tom Langdon has the motor mounts and all the tech advice you would need for the swap.
Good luck, and I'm sure others with actual experience will chime in soon. | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 10 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 10 | I have a 250 in my 52 3/4 ton. I didn't move anything in the engine bay (radiator or firewall). I paired it with a 700r4 and stock rear end (4.56 gears & 16in tires). It works great. Let me know if you have any questions about it.
I may drive a VW, but I love my 52 Truck...
| | | | Joined: Nov 2013 Posts: 38 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2013 Posts: 38 | I have started the engine swap, from current 235 to 250 with Auto trans. Engine is on the floor next to truck - a 1948 1/2 ton. H ve not bought the Auto trans yet. Still contemplating whether TH350 or the newer 700 R whatever.??? Input on what I cna expect in the transfer is appreciated????? ken | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | The "general" things to look at or watch for is engine mounts front and rear, water pump/fan clearance. Someone with experience on that swap will likely chime in.
...for and automatic my opinion is definitely 700R4. I've had 350's in my 37 and my 52. Both have been switched to 700's. If you go with 700 be sure to get a '89 up. I'm not bad mouthing the 350's its just the 700's are better for lower RPM and hopefully better mileage. In the end, its up to you. | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 388 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 388 | since you're already getting the original transmission/bellhousing crossmember out of the way (for the auto), you wont have to worry about that, which is nice.
You have to decide how you're going to mount the engine... using either the side mounts (as the 250's were mounted), or by fabricating a new front mount (and using the 216/235 mounting location). I opted to make my own front mount. I didn't have any issues with fan or firewall clearance when I did mine. | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 128 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 128 | You might want to look at this thread.... come up 60 years..... | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 | Since the 250 is actually SHORTER than the 235/216 length shouldn't be a problem. For those who will disagree, See Leo Santucci's book on building the L6. I don't believe Tom Langdon carries the 250 mounts any more, but you can get the same ones from Chassis Engineering. Stock, you get 155 HP, 2 more main bearings, full flow oiling, and easy to get parts. It's a great swap, and one of the easiest. Have fun!
Best wishes,
Les | | |
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