The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Best spray can primer for interior

Getting ready to install my gauges and did not want to mask them, then paint. I have etching and rust colored primers. Would Rusto Clean Metal primer be better or does it really matter since it is the interior. Also, what grit sandpaper should I use? Thanks, Steve

More important than brand or type of paint is the preparation. Clean and smooth. Clean, clean..OK you get it. Sand paper grit depends on what you are cleaning up. Rust? Bare metal. That means something like 80 grit. Then back down in steps to 200 grit. Clean, clean and use a good de-greaser. When it is all ready use what is agreeable with the color you are using. Mask anything that you don't want over=spray on. You will need lots of tape.

Thanks for the tips Steve. I am thinking of using wet/dry paper. I have lacquer thinner. OK to use for a de-greaser? The dash was painted over with flat black paint and was not sanded first.

NO. it leaves a residue.
Original Dawn and hot water will be better than lacquer thinner.
Not better than a real wax and grease remover though...

But if the dash was never sanded then you should really deal with that first.
Remove the flat black and see where your get using the 80 or 100 grit first.

I'm glad I asked about the lacquer thinner. I did't have any 80 grit lying around, but the 100 seems to work. Any suggestions for a good grease remover? Probably lots of them on the shelf. The real problem of course, is the rusty areas BEHIND the dash where it's hard to get. Steve

I use SPI Waterborne 700-1.

You should see what it does to clean kitchen cabinets!

I learned my lesson with lacquer thinner, it was causing fish eyes after I top coated. Now I wipe down before painting with acetone and don't have any surprises.

I agree wholeheartedly on the lacquer thinner. I've had excellent results with a product called Pre to clean surfaces prior to painting. We've used bomb cans to repaint the dash in a '67 Impala and to paint the entire interior of my '56 3100.

Also be very careful on any surface that has even come close to Armorall--you'll have fish eyes galore. For that use a product like PolyCracker and be prepared to spend some time repainting if you've jumped the gun and sanded the surface before treating it.

Basicly get all Silicon spray out of the garage if you plan on painting down the road.
There are other lubricants.

Ah, at last some one looked at the back of the dash. There is no easy way to get that clean. Only way to really clean that critter is to remove it if you can. And that is just the start. At the bottom there is a nice lovely curved channel that collects much bad news and the only way I could clean that up was with a lot of time and lots of sand paper wrapped around lots of different shaped things. Take the hints on the solvents. And all of them can be used at different stages. Soap and water, Paint thinners, De-greasers, and what ever the manufacture of the paint recommends. No short cuts on the prep side.

Steve, on the subject of "the dark side" or behind the dash, I referred to an older post suggesting Penetrol. I have used it on garden and other tools and happy with the results. It goes on real easy too. If you use it make sure it is for oil based paint. Oh yeah, that channel is like a waste basket isn't it?

A great invention, the mirror.