The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 engine toruble--sputtering and lost high RPM power

HI, have a stock, rebuilt 216 that original for my 1940 truck. I just pulled it out of winter storage and now its having problems. This is a two stage story of events so please bear with me...

#1 Problem:
When I took the truck out from winter storage, started right up, sounded great, idle smooth, and ran fine at low RPM. Although, when you push the accelerator more than half way...it sputters, shakes, and has absolutely no high RPM power.

#2 The remedies I tried:
-Ran it around all day with fresh gas/fuel additives.
-Fresh AC delco sparkplugs with correct gaping
-Regapped points and corrected cam dwell.
NONE OF THESE REMEDIES WORKED.
-So I Placed a new set of point on AND NOW IT WONT START AT ALL AND I"M NOT GETTING ANY SPARK!

*** What is going on here?

Check the stud that goes through the side of the distributor to power the points. The insulator can fail.

Had the same no spark problem with a new set of points that I installed in my 216. Ran an ignition file across the points a couple of times, problem solved. Had your other problem a few times too. Dirt in carb., accelerator pump, and forgetting to push in the choke.

Some new points come with a coating to prevent corrosion while on the shelf. Now isn't that helpful! You can still get an ignition file or you can get a metal nail file both are cheap and work. Don't use sand paper. Change the condenser while you are in there. Reset the timing and then if you need to, start on the fuel system. One step at a time. Fix one thing, test. Fix another, test. Do a lot of things and you won't know what works and what does not.

Touch an ice pick type test light to the terminal at the side of the distributor with the ignition switch in the "on" position with the test light wire attached to a good ground. With the points open, the light should be on, and off with the points closed. If the light is off with the points open, you've got the point spring grounded to the distributor housing or the stud through the side of the distributor is touching the housing. If the light is on with the points closed, the points are dirty or they've got some sort of non-conductive coating on the contacts. The point gap should be set somewhere around .015"-.020".
Jerry

Thanks everyone! I got it running better than ever! Smoother idle, higher RPMS, and more power! The little tune ups make the biggest difference

What I did was re-gap the spark plugs
New Condenser
New Points (thanks for the tip on filing it down!)
New COIL...If anyone needs to replace the coil I would highly recommend the "Flamethrower" brand ignition coils...noticeable power difference.

And what was it??? I'm having the same problem. .. smooth idle but accelerate and it's dying