The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder

I have a want ad for an ignition switch for my '39 truck in the classifieds to no avail. I have a switch but no key for it. Seems like the best I can do short of finding a used one is to buy a new lock cylinder and key which they sell, like this: https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/30076/Chevrolet_Ignition_Lock_Cylinder_With_Keys_.html

How easy is it to swap the cylinder into my existing switch? Can anyone please explain?

I also see that key blanks are available. Does anyone know if locksmiths can reverse engineer the cut of a key just from looking at the lock? This might be a better option if so.

Thanks.

Dan

yes, a good locksmith should be able to make you a key [not "just by looking", but they have the tools], taking the lock cylinder out without a key is a problem

Bill

Bill (and Cletis),

If you take out the ignition switch assembly and give the assembly to locksmith, can a key then be made/matched to the cylinder?

A good locksmith can remove the lock cylinder and make a key. It might take quite a bit of time to do but it can be done. The problem with replacing the lock is removing the old one. If you are discarding the lock, there is a way of drilling it, so I understand.

Sounds like holding out for a whole new (used) switch will be easiest. Thanks for the input, all.

Dan

A good locksmith could possibly pick the lock and remove it from the assembly but no telling what the labor charge would be.


A locksmith with a master key set can remove the cylinder from the switch. Once he has it out he can remove the tumblers, read them and make a key for it. If he happens to have a stock of tumblers for 50-80 year old GM products he can change the tumblers to fit any key you want.

The hard part is finding a locksmith with the master keys and the tumblers for 50-80 year old vehicles. Most of those items have been sold to hobbyists like me.

Sounds like Marty (delux54panel) has a master key set and is able to help out and make a new key. Very cool!

Thanks everyone.

Dan

Okay, I couldn't see a real obvious way how the switch comes out. Does the collar on the front unscrew? Just wanted to be sure before I boogered it up.

Dan

Before you try anything from the front. Try this. Remove the cables from the battery. Look under the dash right at the back of the switch. If you have what the parts books show then you have two screws that hold the switch from the back to the dash. Remove them and the whole switch will come out. Remove the wires and label them then take the whole switch to a lock smith. No scratches involved. It could be just that simple.

I believe on a 39 truck there are three small divots on the out side of the nut/bezel. These are there for a spanner wrench to catch in. I cant say for sure but it seems like the lock cylinder must be removed first though as the face of the cylinder is slightly larger than the retaining nut/bezel.

I just was reading this article here: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ignition_switch.html

It suggests that I need to remove the cylinder first as well, which I guess is going to be a problem since I don't have a key. Now I'm not sure what to do. Any ideas?

Here's some pictures of what I've got.

Pic1

Pic2

Appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Dan

Well I'm apparently too impatient to wait for an answer. The collar spun loose just fine and the switch is now out of the truck. Bad news is the steel conduit that leads to the coil is still attached, along with the coil "lid." Not a big deal except that I need to replace this wire as it is badly frayed. Despite having a hex head on each end of the conduit, it is apparently machined into place and can't be removed in any way that I can see. Any advice?

Dan

You have a couple of options.
First, are you using a stock coil?
If you are you will need to uncrimp the housing of the switch to get the Bakelite contact assembly and wire out(not a easy job).
Second option is not to use a stock coil.
If you are going this route you can just carefully cut the shielded housing off, exposing the inner wire. The inner wire is almost always in good shape a few inches up from the end.
I usually cut the housing at or near where it comes though the firewall.

I think what I'll do is cut the conduit behind the dash somewhere. I can then splice a new wire in on the coil side, because I'm sure that's the only place it's damaged. Then I can just put it back together (tack weld it, tape it, whatever) and it will still look stock.

I just hope it's not damaged at the switch from me trying to remove the conduit.

Dan

OK so that part is nothing like my part. Glad you got some help.