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Outa here!!!
dg

Last edited by Denny Graham; 04/11/2014 12:07 AM.

Denny G
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Wow, that's one heck of a markup! You can get the adapter, and blaster unit at HF for the same price. I'm wondering if someone put a 1 in front of the number on accident.


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Can some please explain what the benefits of soda blasting are? headscratch


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Carburetor rebuild

Denny has some pics of a carb he recently rebuild.
The soda blaster gave excellent results

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Originally Posted by DADS50
Carburetor rebuild

Denny has some pics of a carb he recently rebuild.
The soda blaster gave excellent results

Just watched your Then and Now video...Very well done...not sure why my nose is running all of a sudden...

Last edited by The Hill Boys; 03/27/2014 10:59 PM.

Ron and Ryan Hill
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Thanks thumbs_up


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Originally Posted by The Hill Boys
Just watched your Then and Now video...Very well done
Thank you
_______________________________________

here is Denny soda blast post
Originally Posted by Denny Graham
So here's the soda blasting results.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/154914328
I'm sure the guy that owns the carb wouldn't be to
happy if I told him that he will have to dig thru the
scrap barrel if he wants his Rochester BC back.
DG

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Advantages over other blasting media---Soda wont heat up and warp body sheet metal panels. It is biodegradeable so cleanup is easy and it has no free silicas that kill you.

I think it is also competitive price wise.


R-Bo

1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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R-Bo nicely answered the ". . what the benefits of soda blasting are?" question.

Here is another write-up of advantages of soda blasting.

I have successfully used soda blasting for many small and/or delicate jobs. It is not the only useful method, but it is a very useful method.

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Soda Blasting wiki

For the types of uses Denny mentioned I can see the benefits... I still have 'issues' with the idea of Soda Blasting for preparing metal for paint.

I don't see where it saves any time or money since after something is 'stripped' it still needs the 'protective layer' removed and neutralized and the surface scratched for adhesion quality if you're going to use an epoxy primer. Not to mention the rust still present.

If you look on the link it has a list of paint manufacturers and their warranty policies and recommendations regarding Soda Blasting.

Not very comforting.


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My auto paint supplier said don't use it. They have had many issues with soda blasted metal and then adhesion issues later. No personal experience just what they told me.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Auto paint suppliers are being practical/prudent when stating not to use soda blasting. If the metal that has been blasted is not properly cleaned/prepped before priming/painted, the adhesion will fail.

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I agree they ARE being prudent.
As I believe I am when it comes to my time and labor in avoiding Soda blasting. wink


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Sorry CASO, I was not replying to you. I try not to waste your valuable time and effort.

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LOL


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I'd like to give soda blasting a try, however I'm a little perplexed (common these days) about the part where it brags about the anti-rusting effect soda has over sand blasting, then mentions how much more easily soda is to remove (rinse) from the substrate being blasted.

Uhm, once you rinse the soda residue from the substrate, of course using water, don't you then kinda start the oxidation process all over?

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Where I can see it coming in handy would be for carbs or something with soft metals. But not enough to try since #1 Silica Sand is so powdery already, no pitting, warping or anything occurs anyway. I turn the air pressure down to about 40psi for carbs. Metal Prep IS key. Like Denny says, clean clean clean.


Deve

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Denny, saw your comparison of Eastwood's soda blast conversion kit vs. HF's.Sounds like you are pleased w/HF's kit. I was under the assumption the Eastwood products were much better quality. Question is...did you get your abrasive blaster from HF also, and have you been pleased with it. They all look the same to me..HF, Northern and Eastwood but 2X differences in price. Deve indicated he got the HF blaster, but had to upgrade hose, valves..basically everything but the pot.


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
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Thanks Denny..great advice.


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

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When I wrote that on my website, I was very new and learning the hard way. The HARD WAY couldn't be more true when starting with an HF 80 gal pressure blaster. I simply started with a 1950 frame with the full intent on doing everything associated with the entire truck. I didn't get past the 1st crossmember before the valves were trashed, the hose had holes in it and the nozzle was toast.

To this day I LOVE my HF pressure blaster. But with all of the changes I had to make. Goodyear high pressure hose, carbide nozzle, water trap, better shutoffs, etc. My personal opinion, which is about the same as asking a brick wall, would be that any of the companies you mentioned would take your money, but you would end up having to make the very same changes. I buy stuff from Northern and Eastwood, and the differences are... wait for it... there aren't many!


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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