The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop brake light switch mounting?

I have a 51 Chevy 3100 with an ls-1, and i purchased the brake assembly that keeps the reservoir under the truck. My question is did you guy's mount the switch inside or outside (underneath) the truck? any pictures?

My 57 GMC uses a simple switch inline, with posts for 2 wires. It is in the line going to the rear wheels. Available at any flaps. Just need a T fitting.

The switch can go wherever is convenient, but if it's an electrical switch and under the truck, make sure it's a weatherproof one. I would think it will be more convenient for you to have it outside the cab, depending on your pedal action.

Ruh Roh!

I bought the power brake kit that fits under the cab in the original booster location and figured I could put the brake switch in the factory location....

Maybe this isn't so? Ho boy! More planning to do!

Looking at the picture of the stock location for that switch posted by Dogs51Burb, it seems you could keep a stock switch in the stock location if you use the stock brake pedal.
Unless your engine harness also requires a "reverse" brake signal (+ when brakes are released).

I'm gonna try it. I bought an aftermarket, 12V switch with the intent of putting it in the stock location, and I do intend to use the stock brake pedal/arm.

I don't understand what you mean by "reverse" brake signal...I'm truly a brand-new, fell off the turnip truck yesterday-kinda electrical guy.

I purchased one of the Painless Wiring kits so I could just start from scratch, with updated wiring, plus will serve as a method to make me smarter on the electrical systems...at least that's what I keep telling myself. I just haven't had the time (nor inclination in this cold weather) to start on the wiring yet, but I hear spring could be on the way!

I'm not sure what he means by "reverse" brake signal either.

I do know this though, with the painless kit you need to make sure that when your brakes are not depressed, the switch doesn't make a circuit, and when they are depressed it makes the circuit. The GM brake light switch I used had both options, because it was intended for cruise. Figuring out which way your switch works will tell you whether the switch needs to be activated or deactivated when the pedal is pressed. In my case my brake light switch has the button depressed when the brakes are off, and when the brakes are applied the button on the switch is released.

I hope that helps.

46gmcpu, thank you! I would've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my brake lights didn't work!!

They would have worked. All the time. Until you put the brakes on then they would have turned off. Not too good.

Yep, exactly!

The fun one is: when you put on the brakes and your front turn signal lights come on.

Not much different than what you see every day here in Virginia Beach. Holy cow I've never experienced such lousy, distracted and rude drivers.

I know we have a representation of drivers from all 4 corners of the world, but man!

Never heard of a switch/brake system needing a "reverse" voltage to shut off. All of these mechanical switches AD/TF are the same. They are just momentary, normally closed, switches. Maybe it's a hint that, after all these years, the brake light switch on many vehicles is still a pedal activated mechanical switch.

Some of the aftermarket switches are different, I believe. Some make a connection and some break a connection. Just need to be aware what you're buying if you're doing a custom install and that it suits your needs.

To clarify: I'm speaking of a mechanical brake light switch mounted on firewall per original. The ones they sell for $6 for AD and TF replacement. You can't wire them backwards, you could mount them in such a way as to operated backwards if you really tried hard I suppose. There are only two wires and you are either breaking or making the continuity. I'm not speaking about switches mounted elsewhere or pressure switches. I understand you had a situation with your kit and are advising caution and yours was for cruise control.

I understand what you're referring to. This entire thread was based on a custom application, that's why I'm talking about non-stock switches.

Yes I'm using custom set up that requires the brakes to be applied to start the engine. My pedal is floor mount with the booster /cylinder being under the truck. The solution I found was to drill a hole in the floor board/firewall and run the switch through the floor with a nut on the outside. then I fabricated a small (arm) and mounted it to the brake arm (pedal assembly) so that when the brake is at rest the arm is pushing in the brake switch. when the brake is depressed the switch is released.The switch looks a little frail and i would not trust it on the outside of the truck.

Nose hair? Ear hair? Pit hair? Or are you speaking figuratively?
Carl