The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay special tool for distributor terminal? and purple oil

Working on the '53 3800. I'm replacing the condenser and points on a distributer for a 58-62 era 235. I need a special tool mentioned on other posts - it's for the inside of the terminal (inside the cap) that holds on the points/condenser. The older dists had a nut but this one is in a tight spot and has a weird screw head. Where do I get one of these tools? I'm not getting fire.
Also, I drained the old oil and found it to be a medium dark purple (??). It didn't seem like dirty oil, though it had the consistency of oil. Any clues? Did the PO use synthetic oil or something?

http://Alignment2012.com/1953chevy.html

John
I got mine from Snap On probably 40 years ago. The number is TMC 43. I don't know if it is still avialable or not. Most people see it and have no idea what it is for.
Good luck.
Jim

I used needle nose pliers.

John,

I thought that special nut was buried in the insulator on the outside of the distributor housing. Would a inexpensive pair of needle nose pliers sharpened to a point or a pair of snap ring pliers work to remove the nut.

Have you tracked power from the key side of the coil to the primary lead wire....the one that goes to your special nut. The points must be properly adjusted to 'fire' the coil.

Stuart

John,

Stuart is correct - the nut is on the outside. The head of the bolt is inside the distributor. Jim's tool will unscrew that nut. You could file away the middle of a screwdriver blade and it would then "straddle" the screw post and turn the nut.

Tim

Stuart - I thought I took a close look at the outside. You must be right, the '55 manual says there should be something there: see pic:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/1955truck2shop/55ctsm06y41.htm
Tim and Jim - I'll try those tools, no TMC 43 seems to be on Snap On these days. I'll do some trouble shooting tomorrow and see what happens - I'm replacing points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. Here's a question - I'm using a 12 volt coil with internal resistor and skipping the ignition switch by running the power off the starter. Is that a good idea? It's a 12 volt system, and I have a key so I can run it through the ignition switch - is there a ballast resistor in the line somewhere? It's a '53 1 ton but the engine is a 58-62 235. Oops - also was wondering about the vaccum advance - it seems broken - the distributor housing can be rotated an inch or so back and forth - that will effect timing won't it?

John,

A internally resisted coil doesn't use a ballast resistor. I must not understand your statement. Unless the coil were switched, you couldn't shut the rig off. In your case, if you can start it with the key, and shut if off with the key, it's a done deal.

If the distributor moves, timing changes. When the vacuum advance unit is working properly, the distributor housing is as solid as the internal spring in the vacuum can..the distributor won't wiggle.

Stuart

You were right about the inset terminal nut - used needle nose pliers to get it out. This morning got the points in and set, and with starter fluid got a few chugs out of it. It's alive! However, the starter engage gear kicks out on the first chug, so I can't keep cranking it to get it started. The starter spins for a moment and as it slows down a little clunk happens, which I think is the starter gear sliding back into place. I have another starter, it should fit but it's not a foot pedal starter.

the "dark purple" oil you referred to is probably Royal Purple synthetic oil. I work in a parts house and that is the most common for that color.

junkyard

John,

Your donor solenoid style starter might have a different pinion configuration and could complicate any starting issues you have right now.

I would stick with what you have. Clean the cables, charge the battery, check plugs and timing... generally just get things tuned and it should go. The worst case scenario would be pulling the existing starter, cleaning the commutator and maybe installing new brushes. Even jumping the existing setup might help wake the beast up.

Stuart

Okay Stuart - that makes sense. You guys are great! Thanks junkyard - I was worried the PO goofed.

Colorado,
The Tool in question can be had from anyone who sells K D Specialty tools,Part #2025.
It,s a 3in1 Nut Driver for the outer nut on 1 end
Other end is the Internal Spanner Nut Tool
And a Screwdriver that slips in the middle for the Points+Condenser screws.
OR on evil bay right now Item # 140034709535
Oh and it fits All 216,235 and 261 Dists.
Regards,
Steve Sr.
PS no its not mine,nor am I affiliated with this auction,
I just Have 1 or 2 and love the tool,it makes point changes a breeze
As of 13:45 hrs eastern time there was 4days,15mins left on auction

Thanks for the tip Steve Sr. With some persistence, and boasting the battery juice, I was able to get some definite explosions (in a good way) out of the '53 3800 beast. It actually ran for about four seconds twice (off the starting fluid). Must keep trying, ran out of daylight.

John,

You use the term "explosions"...that's exactly what they are and they can bust things easier than a person would think. Starting fluid is a tough show on any engine so use it in moderation.

Stuart

I agree, tomorrow it's gas. There was only one minor explosion (where's that fire extinguisher?). BTW, I drained the purple synthetic oil, but residue remains. No issue adding 10w 30?

Where,s Chiphead when I need him?
Anyway to quote his signature line....
Preaching the Gospel according to the 4Cycle Apostles. Suck,Squish,Fire,Flames
Regards,SS

Well, if anyone's still listening, success! Had the 235 babbitt running today, three times, idling for about a minute each time (had to fill carb bowl each time). He shall live again after god knows how many years in suspended animation. Amazingly, looks like the carb is still working fine! And the skies were rent asunder and his name appeared before me: Lazarus. Thanks everyone - updates at the 53chevy link below.